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+--- Thread: New Owner Introduction (/showthread.php?tid=922)
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New Owner Introduction - nukey99 - 12-11-2014
Hi - We are new owners of a 1994 Tiara 4000E with twin cummins 6cta 8.3's. Very happy with the boat, it's nicely setup with extensive Furuno VX2 electronics, satalite tv, Cockpit air and extensive camper isenglass. Located in Tampa area, and looking forward to cruises to the keys, the bahamas and maybe the great loop.
RE: New Owner Introduction - AncientMariner - 12-12-2014
Hi and welcome.
We have the same year and model and will pretty much be doing as you plan to do.
Although we haven't owned our Tiara long, I have pretty well been through most of the boat and systems and might be able to answer some questions for you.
Should you decide to come "north and east", be sure to stop our way.
Paul
(12-11-2014, 09:13 AM)nukey99 Wrote: Hi - We are new owners of a 1994 Tiara 4000E with twin cummins 6cta 8.3's. Very happy with the boat, it's nicely setup with extensive Furuno VX2 electronics, satalite tv, Cockpit air and extensive camper isenglass. Located in Tampa area, and looking forward to cruises to the keys, the bahamas and maybe the great loop.
RE: New Owner Introduction - nukey99 - 12-12-2014
Hi Paul - We'll be sure to look you up when we come north.
Right out of the gates, I do have a question for you. Does your boat have a maserator pump and overboard discharge for the holding tank? If so, where is that equipment set up. Our boat spent a lot of it's life on the great lakes, and was delivered there. Given the discharge laws, it was not delivered with an overboard system. We want to add one so we are not tied to returning to marina's to pump out on long trips.
thanks
Jim
RE: New Owner Introduction - AncientMariner - 12-12-2014
Jim,
If you have a breaker in the main electrical panel (in cabin next to stairs) marked Macerator, you have one from the factory. It took me a few days to figure it all out and get it working.
There should be a "Y" valve in the engine room . Mine is on starboard forward bulkhead. The sea cock is reached from the trunk/lazarette starboard side hatch.
Open the sea cock, flip the Y valve and turn on macerator breaker and all should work.
As it turns out our Tiara also came from Michigan a couple of months ago and also has always been a fresh water boat. We have aprox 470 hrs on both engines.
Paul
(12-12-2014, 09:48 AM)AncientMariner Wrote: Hi and welcome.
We have the same year and model and will pretty much be doing as you plan to do.
Although we haven't owned our Tiara long, I have pretty well been through most of the boat and systems and might be able to answer some questions for you.
Should you decide to come "north and east", be sure to stop our way.
Paul
(12-11-2014, 09:13 AM)nukey99 Wrote: Hi - We are new owners of a 1994 Tiara 4000E with twin cummins 6cta 8.3's. Very happy with the boat, it's nicely setup with extensive Furuno VX2 electronics, satalite tv, Cockpit air and extensive camper isenglass. Located in Tampa area, and looking forward to cruises to the keys, the bahamas and maybe the great loop.
RE: New Owner Introduction - nukey99 - 12-12-2014
We do not have that breaker and don't have the y-valve. However, the information you shared tells me how I will set it up when we get the boat pulled.
As an fyi - our Glendinning cable master is struggling to retrieve the 50 amp line. I've decided to take that out and have a standard connection put in. It simplifies the boat, removes a point of failure, and for 90% of our boat use, it means just unplug and leave it at the dock. For longer trips, I can coil it up by and and put it in the engine room or the trunk.
RE: New Owner Introduction - AncientMariner - 12-12-2014
Although having the shore side electrical connectors located where they are may not be the best for corrosion, I find the cord handler (Glendenning) to be a great asset. Handling a 50amp cord when you are tired from a trip or bad weather is not fun. I like flipping a switch and magic happens.
Since we were RVers as well for many years, I have had to wrestle with that many times. Handling a 50 amp cordset is a pain after awhile. Fixing the Glendenning should be fairly simple. I think you will regret changing it. IMHO.
Paul
(12-12-2014, 11:11 AM)nukey99 Wrote: We do not have that breaker and don't have the y-valve. However, the information you shared tells me how I will set it up when we get the boat pulled.
As an fyi - our Glendinning cable master is struggling to retrieve the 50 amp line. I've decided to take that out and have a standard connection put in. It simplifies the boat, removes a point of failure, and for 90% of our boat use, it means just unplug and leave it at the dock. For longer trips, I can coil it up by and and put it in the engine room or the trunk.
RE: New Owner Introduction - nukey99 - 12-12-2014
I do understand your point about the corrosion risk and will have to be very careful about that. for the vast majority of our trips, I would simply unplug and leave the cable on our dock, that is pretty easy indeed. I am going to hold onto the Glendinning, put it in the garage, if it turns out I made a mistake, I'll swap it back in. Nothing a couple of boat units can't fix.
RE: New Owner Introduction - ReelMagic - 12-12-2014
Not sure what your problem is w/the Glendenning but I have one on my 2003 38 Open and it makes life very easy when traveling and coiling the power cable.... If the cable isn't coming in and appears to be slipping you can remove washers that form the pulley that provides the friction to retrieve the cable.. See the instructions from Glendenning..... I had a slipping problem when retrieving and this solved the problem. Also I clean the cable removing any built up dirt... Tried to use "starBrite" cable cleaner/wax but that made the cable to slippery... Cleaned the cable again w/softscrub to remove the "starbrite" cable cleaner/wax and all is good... Just M2C.
RE: New Owner Introduction - nukey99 - 12-12-2014
(12-12-2014, 01:22 PM)ReelMagic Wrote: Not sure what your problem is w/the Glendenning but I have one on my 2003 38 Open and it makes life very easy when traveling and coiling the power cable.... If the cable isn't coming in and appears to be slipping you can remove washers that form the pulley that provides the friction to retrieve the cable.. See the instructions from Glendenning..... I had a slipping problem when retrieving and this solved the problem. Also I clean the cable removing any built up dirt... Tried to use "starBrite" cable cleaner/wax but that made the cable to slippery... Cleaned the cable again w/softscrub to remove the "starbrite" cable cleaner/wax and all is good... Just M2C.
You guys have got me rethinking my plan. I'm going to go down to the boat right now, run the cable all the way out, then go below and watch what is happening when I hit retrieve.
Last time I took it out, I had to push it in so hard, I was hurting my shoulder, that made me
RE: New Owner Introduction - nukey99 - 12-12-2014
I understand now the virtue of joining this forum. I went to Nepenthe and spent several hours in the engine room diagnosing the cable master. As far as I can see the devise is still functional, the cable has taken on an odd twist that doesn't allow it to flow into the container properly. A pretty strong engine could not force it through the knots it tends to fall in. I'm still thinking through the correct strategy to correct that situation. I could detach the cable and try to stretch/relax it. We have a 30 amp alternative, and in the months with out AC running 30 amps covers it easy.
Good input from those who responded, and helped me to avoid moving forward on a misguided project.
thanks!