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power problem connecting to pedestal with GFI breakers
#11
(07-04-2019, 07:51 AM)3200Open Wrote: So it seems that all the Tiara's at our marina have the same problem with the new GFCI pedestals. Some other brands are having problems as well.  Here is what we found, the new NEC code for marina power pedestals require GFCI protected outlets for the shore power cords. These look for a maximum of 30 milliamperes max difference between the hot and neutral wires within the shore power feed, if the pedestal outlet sees anything more than 30 milliamperes difference between hot and neutral then it trips the pedestal breakers.   On Tiara's, with (2) 30 amp shore cords, the neutral gets shared behind the main breaker panel and the pedestals cannot match the hot and neutrals because it cannot differentiate with shared neutral.  The solution was to separate the shore 1 and shore 2 neutrals to 2 different bus bars(my boat had 2 neutral bus bars that were connected via jumper wire) keep the hots associated with its neutrals so that each shore power feed has its own dedicated hot and neutrals.  On my boat, the only thing on shore power 2 is the cabin AC/Heat.  Everything works fine now with not trips.  Hope this helps others as they move to these new pedestals.

Thanks for the solution. I am running into the same issue on my 3200.

where are these bus bars for shore 1 & 2 located within the boat?
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#12
(08-14-2019, 10:35 AM)ecsurfinglbi Wrote:
(07-04-2019, 07:51 AM)3200Open Wrote: So it seems that all the Tiara's at our marina have the same problem with the new GFCI pedestals. Some other brands are having problems as well.  Here is what we found, the new NEC code for marina power pedestals require GFCI protected outlets for the shore power cords. These look for a maximum of 30 milliamperes max difference between the hot and neutral wires within the shore power feed, if the pedestal outlet sees anything more than 30 milliamperes difference between hot and neutral then it trips the pedestal breakers.   On Tiara's, with (2) 30 amp shore cords, the neutral gets shared behind the main breaker panel and the pedestals cannot match the hot and neutrals because it cannot differentiate with shared neutral.  The solution was to separate the shore 1 and shore 2 neutrals to 2 different bus bars(my boat had 2 neutral bus bars that were connected via jumper wire) keep the hots associated with its neutrals so that each shore power feed has its own dedicated hot and neutrals.  On my boat, the only thing on shore power 2 is the cabin AC/Heat.  Everything works fine now with not trips.  Hope this helps others as they move to these new pedestals.

Thanks for the solution. I am running into the same issue on my 3200.

where are these bus bars for shore 1 & 2 located within the boat?

Hi, the panel is behind the setee seat back underneath the main electrical breakers for the shore power/ generator etc. slide the seat up the wall and it should come up and off. Once seatbaxk is off there should be 4 screws holding a rectangular would piece in place. Only do this with all power(shorepower disconnected) and 12volt turned off as the components otherwise would be live. The two bus bars will have white wires connected to them and a jumper in between them. You will need a dedicated neutral from each shorepower breaker above ( one to each bus bar) think of shore one and shore two each having their own neutral back to the pedestal vs sharing one. Each respective neutral should service and match the hots that it feeds. Also will need a couple other tweaks. I would be happy to call you if you need additional info.
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#13
Great information. I had the same issue this past week at a marina that just put in all new power on Block Island. The electrician was saying it was my Galvanic Isolator but I was running fine until I plugged in Shore 2 and turned on the AC. As soon as the compressor clicked the breaker would trip. I will have to check to see if there is a shared ground with Shore 1. That makes perfect sense.
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#14
I have tried the above recommendation and have separated the neutrals. Now the neutral that comes in on the shore power circuit for the AC is dedicated to the neutral for the AC unit on it's own buss. I am still tripping the breakers. Did I have to separate the grounds as well? Cannot figure out why I am still tripping the breaker. The pump gets its neutral from the AC unit so that is not the problem. This is driving me crazy.
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#15
(11-11-2020, 04:17 PM)Matta0413 Wrote: I have tried the above recommendation and have separated the neutrals.  Now the neutral that comes in on the shore power circuit for the AC is dedicated to the neutral for the AC unit on it's own buss.  I am still tripping the breakers.  Did I have to separate the grounds as well?  Cannot figure out why I am still tripping the breaker.  The pump gets its neutral from the AC unit so that is not the problem.  This is driving me crazy.

Hello,  be happy to review with you over the phone.  Email me
At mwgibbons@comcast.net with phone number.  Mike

(11-11-2020, 04:17 PM)Matta0413 Wrote: I have tried the above recommendation and have separated the neutrals.  Now the neutral that comes in on the shore power circuit for the AC is dedicated to the neutral for the AC unit on it's own buss.  I am still tripping the breakers.  Did I have to separate the grounds as well?  Cannot figure out why I am still tripping the breaker.  The pump gets its neutral from the AC unit so that is not the problem.  This is driving me crazy.
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#16
I had the same issue and had the electrician that did the shore power conversion come back out to the marina, he said that alot of the breakers that they installed were faulty and after he replaced mine I have not had any issues. I did not change any of the wiring on the boat.
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#17
I have tripped several different GFCI's so it has to be something with the boat. Somehow the same current is not returning on the common leg that is going out on the hot leg. Need to figure why.
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#18
If your AC is the only thing tripping the shore pedestal, pull the cover off of it and make sure does not have a ground and neutral bonded together. But somewhere in your air conditioning circuit, you have an imbalance between your hot and neutral. Could be the circuit board or windings as well.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
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#19
Thanks I will check that out
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