<![CDATA[Tiara Yacht Owners Forum - All Forums]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/ Mon, 21 Sep 2026 04:40:20 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Hard To Locate Leak]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9400 Sun, 13 Sep 2026 17:17:52 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9400 Leak 4203.JPG
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 [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.]]> Leak 4203.JPG
7 Downloads - FileSize: 74.1 KB
 [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.]]> <![CDATA[Latch for sliding vinyl shade on overhead hatch.]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9399 Thu, 10 Sep 2026 21:32:43 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9399 <![CDATA[1995 3500 Express LFP/Inverter Install]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9398 Thu, 10 Sep 2026 00:09:52 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9398 My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app).

My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand).

I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or more amps without much issue. Second, I'm not planning to use the alternator to charge the battery bank from 0-100% since I really do not foresee my use being more than an overnight on the hook and going to a port with shore power afterwards. Third, if I did need that sort of deep charge for an extended period (like going to the Georgian Bay in Lake Huron), I'd invest in a few solar panels and an MPPT charge controller to do the heavy lifting rather than burning diesel on an inefficient charge.

At port the bank is charged with a dedicated 40 amp LFP charger. You do not want to use a charger that doesn't have an LFP setting because they float differently than flooded or gel. You will want to wire the plug for your charger directly to your shore power inlet with an inline fuse or on a line with a dedicated breaker so you can turn it off while on your inverter.

I hooked my batteries together with heavy duty buss bars. Do not cheap out and just try to daisy chain them with battery cables because these batteries are sensitive to path of least resistance. You'll find (like I did) that they'll discharge unevenly if you have the load pulling from battery A while the negative is pulling from Battery C. Make sure to install on-terminal fuses for each battery. Mine are 100 amp.

Once you're hooked together, WattCycle's app lets you control the battery settings through their onboard Bluetooth (don't cheap out and get the kind without Bluetooth built in). Make sure to set all three batteries to parallel mode so they can communicate with one another to manage the draw.

Finally, run #10 or better wire to the generator switch on your panel. It worked like a charm. My inverter came with a remote and a control panel, but I find the remote works great and I have no need to see the state of charge on a panel since the app does a better job anyway.

I gained around twice the usable amp hours at less than half the weight since a group 31 is around 55 pounds and these LFP are only 22 pounds. You can flatten the LFP batteries and it really won't kill your life expectancy on an application like this. 

Note: My V berth AC is a new MarinAire 6k BTU 115v unit that replaced the original when it went out last year. It has built-in soft start and the inverter has zero problems powering it. The whole AC set up pulls around 8 amps running, including my 600 GPH pump.

Hope this helps someone else considering an electric conversion.]]> My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app).

My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand).

I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or more amps without much issue. Second, I'm not planning to use the alternator to charge the battery bank from 0-100% since I really do not foresee my use being more than an overnight on the hook and going to a port with shore power afterwards. Third, if I did need that sort of deep charge for an extended period (like going to the Georgian Bay in Lake Huron), I'd invest in a few solar panels and an MPPT charge controller to do the heavy lifting rather than burning diesel on an inefficient charge.

At port the bank is charged with a dedicated 40 amp LFP charger. You do not want to use a charger that doesn't have an LFP setting because they float differently than flooded or gel. You will want to wire the plug for your charger directly to your shore power inlet with an inline fuse or on a line with a dedicated breaker so you can turn it off while on your inverter.

I hooked my batteries together with heavy duty buss bars. Do not cheap out and just try to daisy chain them with battery cables because these batteries are sensitive to path of least resistance. You'll find (like I did) that they'll discharge unevenly if you have the load pulling from battery A while the negative is pulling from Battery C. Make sure to install on-terminal fuses for each battery. Mine are 100 amp.

Once you're hooked together, WattCycle's app lets you control the battery settings through their onboard Bluetooth (don't cheap out and get the kind without Bluetooth built in). Make sure to set all three batteries to parallel mode so they can communicate with one another to manage the draw.

Finally, run #10 or better wire to the generator switch on your panel. It worked like a charm. My inverter came with a remote and a control panel, but I find the remote works great and I have no need to see the state of charge on a panel since the app does a better job anyway.

I gained around twice the usable amp hours at less than half the weight since a group 31 is around 55 pounds and these LFP are only 22 pounds. You can flatten the LFP batteries and it really won't kill your life expectancy on an application like this. 

Note: My V berth AC is a new MarinAire 6k BTU 115v unit that replaced the original when it went out last year. It has built-in soft start and the inverter has zero problems powering it. The whole AC set up pulls around 8 amps running, including my 600 GPH pump.

Hope this helps someone else considering an electric conversion.]]> <![CDATA[Just got my 2006 Tiara 2900 for Chicago Lake Michigan]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9394 Sat, 05 Sep 2026 17:10:13 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9394 it has good bones but came from saltwater,  I will be doing a lot of updates and maintenance my self. 
Eager to learn more about this community and willing to exchange ideas.

the boat has about 700hrs and thinking to start with exhaust manifolds and raisers, change a good numbers of hoses.
I moved from a 2000 bayliner 2655 single sterndrive and  I am new on driving twin inboards. would like to hire someone to teach me.

Luis]]> it has good bones but came from saltwater,  I will be doing a lot of updates and maintenance my self. 
Eager to learn more about this community and willing to exchange ideas.

the boat has about 700hrs and thinking to start with exhaust manifolds and raisers, change a good numbers of hoses.
I moved from a 2000 bayliner 2655 single sterndrive and  I am new on driving twin inboards. would like to hire someone to teach me.

Luis]]> <![CDATA[3500 Open deck lift piston]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9393 Wed, 02 Sep 2026 13:58:10 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9393 <![CDATA[Just bought a 1997 4000 Express.]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9392 Sun, 30 Aug 2026 20:30:02 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9392 <![CDATA[Wiper Blades 3900 Sovran]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9391 Sat, 29 Aug 2026 13:37:22 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9391 <![CDATA[Free aft cockpit sunshade bracket & canvas - pickup or pay to ship]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9387 Thu, 27 Aug 2026 13:29:37 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9387
[Only registered and activated users can see links Click here to register][Only registered and activated users can see links Click here to register]]]>
[Only registered and activated users can see links Click here to register][Only registered and activated users can see links Click here to register]]]> <![CDATA[38 open bathroom recessed light bulb]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9386 Sun, 23 Aug 2026 13:55:09 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9386 <![CDATA[Main engine hatch gas shock lift assist bracket separation]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9385 Fri, 21 Aug 2026 19:33:33 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9385
Has anyone else experienced this and found a good fix?]]>
Has anyone else experienced this and found a good fix?]]> <![CDATA[WTB 38LS]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9384 Wed, 19 Aug 2026 02:40:23 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9384 <![CDATA[Replacement of Carbon Filter on vent line from Holding Tank. 38 Open]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9383 Tue, 11 Aug 2026 13:58:50 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9383 <![CDATA[Ignition keys needed]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9382 Sun, 09 Aug 2026 21:12:11 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9382 Recently  bought  another Tiara. Only one set of keys and the port engine key is bent and nearly broken off.
Does anyone know how to replace it?
It has a code stamped on it, but I don’t know if its a Tiara item, a Cummins item or a third party.
Local hardware can’t duplicate because its so bent and they don’t have the blanks.
Thanks in advance.]]> Recently  bought  another Tiara. Only one set of keys and the port engine key is bent and nearly broken off.
Does anyone know how to replace it?
It has a code stamped on it, but I don’t know if its a Tiara item, a Cummins item or a third party.
Local hardware can’t duplicate because its so bent and they don’t have the blanks.
Thanks in advance.]]> <![CDATA[Coronet Aft Seat Quick Release pins…]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9381 Sun, 09 Aug 2026 19:03:04 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9381 ]]> ]]> <![CDATA[Interior ceiling lights]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9380 Sat, 08 Aug 2026 17:29:46 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9380 <![CDATA[89 3100 convertable]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9379 Thu, 06 Aug 2026 11:29:11 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9379 <![CDATA[Tiara 52 Sovran Salon Keel Question]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9378 Wed, 05 Aug 2026 15:03:38 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9378 <![CDATA[Seriously considering a '98 4000 Express Cruiser... Have some questions...]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9377 Tue, 04 Aug 2026 20:53:18 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9377
This is my first post on this forum but have been looking around for a while.  We have found a local '98 that is in really good condition cosmetically and priced well.  It does have Cat 3208TA engines, and I do have some questions about them, and a bunch of other questions as well.

The boat is in great shape for its age, but I have been told that hull moisture issues can run rampant on these.  The swim platform is soft in spots, but no other soft spots that we can feel by walking around.  The broker helped the current owner find and acquire this boat a few years ago, and says that there was minor moisture issues here and there at the time, but the swim platform was soft then too.  

Have any of you repaired a soft swim platform?  How would the bottom be accessed? Is the bottom cover removable or do you have to cut it away to access the bottom?

Seems like outboard sides of the motors are pretty tight to the fuel tanks.  Anybody do their own work and can you get to what needs to be done?

Aftercooler and heat exchanger service is required every couple of years and it seems really tight to work on these motors.  Anybody have an idea of what premium i should expect to pay for this?

Is the access to the engine compartment only via the lift up seat?  Does some other hatch open for better access/engine service etc?

Beyond a thorough inspection and engine survey, is there any model specific things I should look for or pay attention to in the survey?

Sorry for the long post, but looking forward to hearing from you guys and will probably have more questions as well.

Cheers!]]>
This is my first post on this forum but have been looking around for a while.  We have found a local '98 that is in really good condition cosmetically and priced well.  It does have Cat 3208TA engines, and I do have some questions about them, and a bunch of other questions as well.

The boat is in great shape for its age, but I have been told that hull moisture issues can run rampant on these.  The swim platform is soft in spots, but no other soft spots that we can feel by walking around.  The broker helped the current owner find and acquire this boat a few years ago, and says that there was minor moisture issues here and there at the time, but the swim platform was soft then too.  

Have any of you repaired a soft swim platform?  How would the bottom be accessed? Is the bottom cover removable or do you have to cut it away to access the bottom?

Seems like outboard sides of the motors are pretty tight to the fuel tanks.  Anybody do their own work and can you get to what needs to be done?

Aftercooler and heat exchanger service is required every couple of years and it seems really tight to work on these motors.  Anybody have an idea of what premium i should expect to pay for this?

Is the access to the engine compartment only via the lift up seat?  Does some other hatch open for better access/engine service etc?

Beyond a thorough inspection and engine survey, is there any model specific things I should look for or pay attention to in the survey?

Sorry for the long post, but looking forward to hearing from you guys and will probably have more questions as well.

Cheers!]]> <![CDATA[New Member To The Forum]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9376 Sat, 01 Aug 2026 16:52:36 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9376
Our plan is to purchase a Tiara likely a Tiara 3200 Open or a 3500 Open (based on research to date) to do more cruising, continue to freshwater fish and ultimately complete the Great Loop in a few years.

The fit, finish and quality of Tiara Boats for the cruiser and fisherman appeal to me and also satisfy my accommodation requirements for extended cruising especially as I get older.

I am a member of other forums and the knowledge, experience, ingenuity and willingness to offer support have been invaluable to me personally.  As a result I am really looking forward to the Tiara Owners Club forum!

Thank you for welcoming me into your community!]]>
Our plan is to purchase a Tiara likely a Tiara 3200 Open or a 3500 Open (based on research to date) to do more cruising, continue to freshwater fish and ultimately complete the Great Loop in a few years.

The fit, finish and quality of Tiara Boats for the cruiser and fisherman appeal to me and also satisfy my accommodation requirements for extended cruising especially as I get older.

I am a member of other forums and the knowledge, experience, ingenuity and willingness to offer support have been invaluable to me personally.  As a result I am really looking forward to the Tiara Owners Club forum!

Thank you for welcoming me into your community!]]> <![CDATA[Blown Valve Seat on a my starboard 2005 Cummins 6CTA8.3L-480CE with only 1061 hours]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9375 Tue, 28 Jul 2026 12:28:11 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9375
I recently purchased a 2005 3600 Sovran with twin 6CTA8.3L-480CE turbo diesels. 970 hours on port engine, 1011 on the starboard. Survey was clean, 3 years of maintenance records suggested all was well cared for (no earlier records were available) and engines ran great on 5 hour trip home from Harbor Springs, MI to our home port of the Les Cheneaux Islands of Michigan's UP. Spent a few weeks rigging her out along with a few 1 hour cocktail cruises through the islands (usually running around 900rpm most of the time). Then set out for a 10 day trip into the North Channel of Lake Huron. Day 1: Ran approx 5-1/2 hours to our first stop (Gore Bay) keeping the engines at 2200rpm (73%) for most of that run. Dsy 2: Fueled-up and made a 2 hour run at 2000-2200 rpm to the Benjamin Islands where we dropped anchor for the night. Day 3: We headed out for a north coast cruise of the North Channel. We ran about 1-1/2 hours without issue and decided to stop at the small Blind River marina to top off the tanks. Engines ran smooth. Shut them down at the marina. Temperature gages were in normal range and no alarms or faults presented. Topped the tanks and started engines back up. Port engine started as smooth as butter. Starboard engine took a couple seconds to fire up and immediately gave out a rhythmic "steel-on-steel" CLING, CLING, CLING, CLING. Immediately shut down the engine and checked gages. Then tried restarting with same result. 

Learned that the starboard engine controls the hydraulic steering steering, so with only a port engine the boat would only turn clockwise circles. Got a towed back to a good marina in the states and had a Cummins mechanic drive up to investigate. Within an hour, the engine dress was stripped off and we found (3) symptoms:
1.  Cylinder #3 valve seat on cylinder head was fractured with debris lodged onto the piston
2. One of the two thermostats was broken in half
3. The small brass coolant check valve was broken.

Cummins suggests teplacing the following parts: cylinder head assembly, piston, piston sleeve, piston bearing, thermostas check valve, and completing a 1000 hr tune-up on both engines. (We checked North America and there are no Cummins head assemblies available. They are made to order with a 12 week lead time and 24 currently on back order. Boat is already pulled and in storage building awaiting parts. -Lost the season-  

I'm currently concerned about going through this repair process only to have a similar issue on the port engine next year.

Questions:
1. Has anyone experienced this or similar on a Cummins 6CTA8.3L-480CE? (I expected 5000 hours before something like this)
2. I would tend to believe that excessive heat would be the root cause of a valve seat failure. And cylinder #3 is fairly close to the broken thermostat and check valve. Is it plausible these part failures  created the valve seat failure?
3. Anyone with thermostat failure experience?
4. I did notice a considerable amount of heat coming from the engine room when I opened the hatch. Mechanic said the engine room should never be more than 30 degrees above ambient. I would guess it was at least 40 degrees delta. Did Tiara design-in enough air flow in the engine room on the 2005 3600 Sovran to handle these monster turbo diesels?

All insight appreciated.]]>
I recently purchased a 2005 3600 Sovran with twin 6CTA8.3L-480CE turbo diesels. 970 hours on port engine, 1011 on the starboard. Survey was clean, 3 years of maintenance records suggested all was well cared for (no earlier records were available) and engines ran great on 5 hour trip home from Harbor Springs, MI to our home port of the Les Cheneaux Islands of Michigan's UP. Spent a few weeks rigging her out along with a few 1 hour cocktail cruises through the islands (usually running around 900rpm most of the time). Then set out for a 10 day trip into the North Channel of Lake Huron. Day 1: Ran approx 5-1/2 hours to our first stop (Gore Bay) keeping the engines at 2200rpm (73%) for most of that run. Dsy 2: Fueled-up and made a 2 hour run at 2000-2200 rpm to the Benjamin Islands where we dropped anchor for the night. Day 3: We headed out for a north coast cruise of the North Channel. We ran about 1-1/2 hours without issue and decided to stop at the small Blind River marina to top off the tanks. Engines ran smooth. Shut them down at the marina. Temperature gages were in normal range and no alarms or faults presented. Topped the tanks and started engines back up. Port engine started as smooth as butter. Starboard engine took a couple seconds to fire up and immediately gave out a rhythmic "steel-on-steel" CLING, CLING, CLING, CLING. Immediately shut down the engine and checked gages. Then tried restarting with same result. 

Learned that the starboard engine controls the hydraulic steering steering, so with only a port engine the boat would only turn clockwise circles. Got a towed back to a good marina in the states and had a Cummins mechanic drive up to investigate. Within an hour, the engine dress was stripped off and we found (3) symptoms:
1.  Cylinder #3 valve seat on cylinder head was fractured with debris lodged onto the piston
2. One of the two thermostats was broken in half
3. The small brass coolant check valve was broken.

Cummins suggests teplacing the following parts: cylinder head assembly, piston, piston sleeve, piston bearing, thermostas check valve, and completing a 1000 hr tune-up on both engines. (We checked North America and there are no Cummins head assemblies available. They are made to order with a 12 week lead time and 24 currently on back order. Boat is already pulled and in storage building awaiting parts. -Lost the season-  

I'm currently concerned about going through this repair process only to have a similar issue on the port engine next year.

Questions:
1. Has anyone experienced this or similar on a Cummins 6CTA8.3L-480CE? (I expected 5000 hours before something like this)
2. I would tend to believe that excessive heat would be the root cause of a valve seat failure. And cylinder #3 is fairly close to the broken thermostat and check valve. Is it plausible these part failures  created the valve seat failure?
3. Anyone with thermostat failure experience?
4. I did notice a considerable amount of heat coming from the engine room when I opened the hatch. Mechanic said the engine room should never be more than 30 degrees above ambient. I would guess it was at least 40 degrees delta. Did Tiara design-in enough air flow in the engine room on the 2005 3600 Sovran to handle these monster turbo diesels?

All insight appreciated.]]>