<![CDATA[Tiara Yacht Owners Forum - Diesel Engines/Transmissions]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/ Mon, 22 Jun 2026 10:46:12 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Cummins 6BTA 5.9 Diamond Series Engines]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9251 Fri, 12 Dec 2025 15:42:38 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9251 <![CDATA[Manuals]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9231 Thu, 30 Oct 2025 20:33:00 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9231 Thank you for reading, and possible answers.
1999 41 open express MAN 2848LE401 engines with a NORPRO Yanmar 3TNV80-NGGE driven gen set.
I am looking for manuals for these engines. Both repair, maintenance part lists etc.
I possess the overall general boat owners manual. I am looking to perform most of my own maintenance.]]> Thank you for reading, and possible answers.
1999 41 open express MAN 2848LE401 engines with a NORPRO Yanmar 3TNV80-NGGE driven gen set.
I am looking for manuals for these engines. Both repair, maintenance part lists etc.
I possess the overall general boat owners manual. I am looking to perform most of my own maintenance.]]> <![CDATA[2007 Savron 390 engines]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9217 Thu, 09 Oct 2025 15:03:27 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9217
Thank you.]]>
Thank you.]]> <![CDATA[2000 Cummings 6BTA 370 HP Oil Sensor]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9188 Thu, 21 Aug 2025 12:36:50 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9188 <![CDATA[Propeller conversion from 3- to 4-blades]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9184 Mon, 18 Aug 2025 17:04:11 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9184 <![CDATA[2007 3600 Open QSB 5.9 380 hp Propeller and Engine Performance Test today]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9165 Mon, 04 Aug 2025 00:07:52 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9165
So I thought I would do some test runs on the boat and get good data because I am thinking it best to put the original props that came on the boat back on it, figuring Tiara and Cummins new best when they chose them. Boat seems to run fine with these props, however would like others opinions.

I have attached all of the data on the current ones, hoping to get some insight from Tony and other experts on the forum.
I have my data with my props in the colored sections, and in the grey sections, I have the Tiara Performance Data they sent me for the original props.

I ran at all RPMs and measured, Furl burn, Boat Speed, Engine Load, and Engine Temps.
At all RPMs for the most part is burning less fuel, but of course the miles per hour is less at all RPMs and I assume it is because the pitch is 27 vs 30 and the cup is #6 vs #7.

It does go wide open to 3060 RPMs but the load is only 85%? 
Probably lower than what it should be, but maybe that is what the previous owner wanted.

I would be really interested in others opinions, on putting the original props back on, and should I expect my boat perfor,anc  to match the Tiara test data?

Thanks in advance, as I have read a lot of the knowledge on the forum.
(08-03-2025, 07:07 PM)Roweje Wrote: Today I did test runs on the current propellers that are on the boat. The current props are Michigan Wheel EPX 23x27 Nibral with a #6 Cup. When I purchased the boat, the original props that came on the boat when new were Michigan Wheel EPX 23x30 #7 cup, were under stored on the boat, however they were bent. I have those being repaired by the Prop Shop since no used in having bent props as spares, and I don’t know why one of the previous owners would have changed both the pitch and cup. Boat is 2007 3600 Open, QSB 5.9 380 hp, only 783 hours. 

So I thought I would do some test runs on the boat and get good data because I am thinking it best to put the original props that came on the boat back on it, figuring Tiara and Cummins new best when they chose them. Boat seems to run fine with these props, however would like others opinions.

I have attached all of the data on the current ones, hoping to get some insight from Tony and other experts on the forum.
I have my data with my props in the colored sections, and in the grey sections, I have the Tiara Performance Data they sent me for the original props.

I ran at all RPMs and measured, Furl burn, Boat Speed, Engine Load, and Engine Temps.
At all RPMs for the most part is burning less fuel, but of course the miles per hour is less at all RPMs and I assume it is because the pitch is 27 vs 30 and the cup is #6 vs #7.

It does go wide open to 3060 RPMs but the load is only 85%? 
Probably lower than what it should be, but maybe that is what the previous owner wanted.

I would be really interested in others opinions, on putting the original props back on, and should I expect my boat performance to match the Tiara test data?

Thanks in advance, as I have read a lot of the knowledge on the forum.

]]>
So I thought I would do some test runs on the boat and get good data because I am thinking it best to put the original props that came on the boat back on it, figuring Tiara and Cummins new best when they chose them. Boat seems to run fine with these props, however would like others opinions.

I have attached all of the data on the current ones, hoping to get some insight from Tony and other experts on the forum.
I have my data with my props in the colored sections, and in the grey sections, I have the Tiara Performance Data they sent me for the original props.

I ran at all RPMs and measured, Furl burn, Boat Speed, Engine Load, and Engine Temps.
At all RPMs for the most part is burning less fuel, but of course the miles per hour is less at all RPMs and I assume it is because the pitch is 27 vs 30 and the cup is #6 vs #7.

It does go wide open to 3060 RPMs but the load is only 85%? 
Probably lower than what it should be, but maybe that is what the previous owner wanted.

I would be really interested in others opinions, on putting the original props back on, and should I expect my boat perfor,anc  to match the Tiara test data?

Thanks in advance, as I have read a lot of the knowledge on the forum.
(08-03-2025, 07:07 PM)Roweje Wrote: Today I did test runs on the current propellers that are on the boat. The current props are Michigan Wheel EPX 23x27 Nibral with a #6 Cup. When I purchased the boat, the original props that came on the boat when new were Michigan Wheel EPX 23x30 #7 cup, were under stored on the boat, however they were bent. I have those being repaired by the Prop Shop since no used in having bent props as spares, and I don’t know why one of the previous owners would have changed both the pitch and cup. Boat is 2007 3600 Open, QSB 5.9 380 hp, only 783 hours. 

So I thought I would do some test runs on the boat and get good data because I am thinking it best to put the original props that came on the boat back on it, figuring Tiara and Cummins new best when they chose them. Boat seems to run fine with these props, however would like others opinions.

I have attached all of the data on the current ones, hoping to get some insight from Tony and other experts on the forum.
I have my data with my props in the colored sections, and in the grey sections, I have the Tiara Performance Data they sent me for the original props.

I ran at all RPMs and measured, Furl burn, Boat Speed, Engine Load, and Engine Temps.
At all RPMs for the most part is burning less fuel, but of course the miles per hour is less at all RPMs and I assume it is because the pitch is 27 vs 30 and the cup is #6 vs #7.

It does go wide open to 3060 RPMs but the load is only 85%? 
Probably lower than what it should be, but maybe that is what the previous owner wanted.

I would be really interested in others opinions, on putting the original props back on, and should I expect my boat performance to match the Tiara test data?

Thanks in advance, as I have read a lot of the knowledge on the forum.

]]> <![CDATA[Rubber Damper Failure between ZF trans and 3208's]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9164 Sun, 03 Aug 2025 20:04:29 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9164 3208 Cats with ZF V-drives and my understanding is a rubber damper lives between the engine and transmission and these have fallen apart. The engines have about 1600 hours and overall the boat performed well up to that point. During the trip we ran 100 miles the first day at 2200 rpms. The 2nd day went 44 miles at 1500 rpms and the last day were running at 1700 rpms when the rubber smell first started.
I would welcome any guidance on a company or individual who could perform what I'm sure is a major repair to split the Trans/V-drive from the engine to change out the defective rubber damper. I can leave the boat at Hancock if there is anyone in the New Jersey or Delaware area. My plan is to truck it to Nashville the week of 8-25. Finding someone to come to either location (Greenwich, NJ or Nashville) is my quest. If there's a point between Greenwich and Nashville the boat could be dropped, that could work too. Anyone who can point me in the right direction here would be my friend forever!
Ernie Jones
615-973-5463]]> 3208 Cats with ZF V-drives and my understanding is a rubber damper lives between the engine and transmission and these have fallen apart. The engines have about 1600 hours and overall the boat performed well up to that point. During the trip we ran 100 miles the first day at 2200 rpms. The 2nd day went 44 miles at 1500 rpms and the last day were running at 1700 rpms when the rubber smell first started.
I would welcome any guidance on a company or individual who could perform what I'm sure is a major repair to split the Trans/V-drive from the engine to change out the defective rubber damper. I can leave the boat at Hancock if there is anyone in the New Jersey or Delaware area. My plan is to truck it to Nashville the week of 8-25. Finding someone to come to either location (Greenwich, NJ or Nashville) is my quest. If there's a point between Greenwich and Nashville the boat could be dropped, that could work too. Anyone who can point me in the right direction here would be my friend forever!
Ernie Jones
615-973-5463]]> <![CDATA[2000 Cummings 6BTA 370 HP]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9156 Mon, 28 Jul 2025 13:51:42 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9156 Oil.jpg
26 Downloads - FileSize: 674.31 KB
     Any idea what this piece is, near oil pressure sensor?]]> Oil.jpg
26 Downloads - FileSize: 674.31 KB
     Any idea what this piece is, near oil pressure sensor?]]> <![CDATA[Pod gear oil]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9071 Mon, 17 Mar 2025 16:31:16 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9071 <![CDATA[TROLLING VALVES]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9070 Mon, 10 Mar 2025 22:55:40 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9070 <![CDATA[Cummins 6CTA 8.3 Engine Rebuild - Additional Photos]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9053 Sun, 26 Jan 2025 16:11:10 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9053








]]>








]]> <![CDATA[Tiara 4000 Express Cummins 6CTA 8.3 In-Frame Engine Rebuild]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9052 Sat, 25 Jan 2025 04:57:47 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9052 I’ll start off by saying now is a great time to inspect and test your engine oil/temp alarms. I recently experienced an overheat event on my port engine at 2200 RPM with no indication other than the temperature gauge. By the time I had noticed it was at 210°F, the damage was already done. A failed hose clamp on a coolant line resulted with all the coolant in the bilge. There had been no loss of power when I shut it down. My engine temp alarm never sounded. I opened the engine hatch and immediately saw all the steam. Originally, I didn’t think it was going to be that bad. There was only a bit of discoloration on the turbo and the exhaust manifold immediately aft of it. I got back to the dock and then put everything back together the next day. All was great until I looked and saw all the steam coming from my port exhaust. You could smell the coolant. Damage included a cracked exhaust manifold, blown head gasket, piston ring expansion, and sleeve scoring. 

I’ve seen a few inquiries regarding an in-frame rebuild of the Cummins 6CTA 8.3 in the 4000 Express, so thought I would confirm it is indeed possible and actually pretty simple for a seasoned mechanic with the right tools. Here is my experience as well as a few photos. 

First, I’ll say I consider myself pretty good with a wrench, but I would never try tackling this job myself. I was fortunate to find Craig from Nordic Engine Works in Seattle who had obviously rebuilt the 6CTA dozens of times and didn’t mind having this owner working as his assistant. We started by pressure testing the coolant side and quickly found the exhaust manifold was cracked. Bubbles in the expansion tank were also observed with the engine running. The oil didn’t show any evidence of a milkshake but there was a few drops of coolant on the inside of the oil fill cap. We opted to pull the head for a closer look. This involved removing just about everything (heat exchanger, exhaust manifold, aftercooler, coolant tank, fuel lines, etc.) The head is pretty heavy and it did take both of us to get it onto the deck. Once removed, we noticed the vertical scarring over the cross hatching of the sleeves. Oh boy, here we go…

We took the head in to be rebuilt at a machine shop and sent the turbo and injectors in for testing. The next step was to drop the oil pan. The design to contain all the engine fluids directly under the engine prevented us from removing it fully but there was plenty of room for disconnecting the connecting rods from the crank. Once all the pistons were removed we pulled all of the sleeves. Next was cleaning…lots of cleaning, as well as surface prep and parts ordering. 

Now obviously I’m pretty disappointed taking on such a large nonbudgeted expense but being part of the rebuild process was actually pretty fun and very educational. We installed the new sleeves and dropped in the new pistons with new bearings on the existing connecting rods. (I learned there are serial numbers on both the upper and lower sections of connecting rods to keep them from getting mixed up) The oil pan was reinstalled with a new gasket. The rebuilt head was installed and torqued to factory specifications. Lifters, rockers, and valve adjustments followed along with installation of the injectors and fuel lines. Then came the new exhaust manifold, rebuilt turbo, heat exchanger, aftercooler, coolant tank, and all the miscellaneous hoses and piping. All in, my mechanic had under 30 hours on the boat. This obviously doesn’t account for his time for travel, part ordering, machine shop runs, etc., but I found it remarkable that a project like this could be completed in a week or two if everything is readily available. I’m happy to have had such a great experience after such an unfortunate one. 

Oh, and I installed a new engine alarm!  









]]> I’ll start off by saying now is a great time to inspect and test your engine oil/temp alarms. I recently experienced an overheat event on my port engine at 2200 RPM with no indication other than the temperature gauge. By the time I had noticed it was at 210°F, the damage was already done. A failed hose clamp on a coolant line resulted with all the coolant in the bilge. There had been no loss of power when I shut it down. My engine temp alarm never sounded. I opened the engine hatch and immediately saw all the steam. Originally, I didn’t think it was going to be that bad. There was only a bit of discoloration on the turbo and the exhaust manifold immediately aft of it. I got back to the dock and then put everything back together the next day. All was great until I looked and saw all the steam coming from my port exhaust. You could smell the coolant. Damage included a cracked exhaust manifold, blown head gasket, piston ring expansion, and sleeve scoring. 

I’ve seen a few inquiries regarding an in-frame rebuild of the Cummins 6CTA 8.3 in the 4000 Express, so thought I would confirm it is indeed possible and actually pretty simple for a seasoned mechanic with the right tools. Here is my experience as well as a few photos. 

First, I’ll say I consider myself pretty good with a wrench, but I would never try tackling this job myself. I was fortunate to find Craig from Nordic Engine Works in Seattle who had obviously rebuilt the 6CTA dozens of times and didn’t mind having this owner working as his assistant. We started by pressure testing the coolant side and quickly found the exhaust manifold was cracked. Bubbles in the expansion tank were also observed with the engine running. The oil didn’t show any evidence of a milkshake but there was a few drops of coolant on the inside of the oil fill cap. We opted to pull the head for a closer look. This involved removing just about everything (heat exchanger, exhaust manifold, aftercooler, coolant tank, fuel lines, etc.) The head is pretty heavy and it did take both of us to get it onto the deck. Once removed, we noticed the vertical scarring over the cross hatching of the sleeves. Oh boy, here we go…

We took the head in to be rebuilt at a machine shop and sent the turbo and injectors in for testing. The next step was to drop the oil pan. The design to contain all the engine fluids directly under the engine prevented us from removing it fully but there was plenty of room for disconnecting the connecting rods from the crank. Once all the pistons were removed we pulled all of the sleeves. Next was cleaning…lots of cleaning, as well as surface prep and parts ordering. 

Now obviously I’m pretty disappointed taking on such a large nonbudgeted expense but being part of the rebuild process was actually pretty fun and very educational. We installed the new sleeves and dropped in the new pistons with new bearings on the existing connecting rods. (I learned there are serial numbers on both the upper and lower sections of connecting rods to keep them from getting mixed up) The oil pan was reinstalled with a new gasket. The rebuilt head was installed and torqued to factory specifications. Lifters, rockers, and valve adjustments followed along with installation of the injectors and fuel lines. Then came the new exhaust manifold, rebuilt turbo, heat exchanger, aftercooler, coolant tank, and all the miscellaneous hoses and piping. All in, my mechanic had under 30 hours on the boat. This obviously doesn’t account for his time for travel, part ordering, machine shop runs, etc., but I found it remarkable that a project like this could be completed in a week or two if everything is readily available. I’m happy to have had such a great experience after such an unfortunate one. 

Oh, and I installed a new engine alarm!  









]]> <![CDATA[1991 3300 Open TIARA owner]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9009 Sat, 12 Oct 2024 14:54:04 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9009
Does anyone know the difference in fuel consumption between Gas 454 Crusaders vs diesel motors, cat or volvo..for a early 1990's 3300 OPEN

Thank you]]>
Does anyone know the difference in fuel consumption between Gas 454 Crusaders vs diesel motors, cat or volvo..for a early 1990's 3300 OPEN

Thank you]]> <![CDATA[2000 3500 Express 6BT 5.9 Best Fuel Economy RPM's]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9006 Mon, 07 Oct 2024 00:45:29 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9006
Thanks, Mike]]>
Thanks, Mike]]> <![CDATA[Prop Size for 4300 Open with 3196 CAT's]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8978 Sun, 18 Aug 2024 11:51:56 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8978
Heard if I go to a 4 blade option I could pick up some mid range speed and smoothest.]]>
Heard if I go to a 4 blade option I could pick up some mid range speed and smoothest.]]> <![CDATA[1999 Tiara Sportsfisherman with DD 6V92 (J&T) TA]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8837 Sat, 20 Jan 2024 16:01:13 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8837
Thanks,

Francisco
furiarte@espadvisers.com





]]>
Thanks,

Francisco
furiarte@espadvisers.com





]]> <![CDATA[Engine Surveyor]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8779 Thu, 12 Oct 2023 20:42:47 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8779 If anyone can provide names/contact info for Cummins engine surveyor in the Boston area it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks for any help]]> If anyone can provide names/contact info for Cummins engine surveyor in the Boston area it would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks for any help]]> <![CDATA[Rotella oil ?]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8774 Mon, 09 Oct 2023 15:32:56 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8774 I plan to use Rotella Diesel (non-synthetic).
What type of oil should I use, T1 or T4.]]> I plan to use Rotella Diesel (non-synthetic).
What type of oil should I use, T1 or T4.]]> <![CDATA[Oil Filter ?]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8765 Sun, 24 Sep 2023 18:03:26 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8765 I have Cummins 6CTA 8.3 and looking for the best brand of oil filters.
At this time the engines have NAPA 1748XD Xtended, which cost over $100 each.
What other oil filter brands that are good and where to buy them?]]> I have Cummins 6CTA 8.3 and looking for the best brand of oil filters.
At this time the engines have NAPA 1748XD Xtended, which cost over $100 each.
What other oil filter brands that are good and where to buy them?]]> <![CDATA[Cummins 6cta 8.3 mechanical smoking when cold]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8760 Tue, 19 Sep 2023 10:20:21 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8760 I am looking at purchasing a 2000 3800 Open.  The motors seem to smoke a lot when cold. I am aware the mechanical engines tend to smoke more than the electronic motors. These seem to smoke more than I am used to. It would seem the smoke is fuel related is this normal for this engine? what have others done to eliminate some of the smoking? Vessel has 700 hours and is used regularly by the current owner. TIA]]> I am looking at purchasing a 2000 3800 Open.  The motors seem to smoke a lot when cold. I am aware the mechanical engines tend to smoke more than the electronic motors. These seem to smoke more than I am used to. It would seem the smoke is fuel related is this normal for this engine? what have others done to eliminate some of the smoking? Vessel has 700 hours and is used regularly by the current owner. TIA]]>