<![CDATA[Tiara Yacht Owners Forum - Portal]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/ Sun, 04 Oct 2026 03:14:07 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Looking for Help with Fuel Vent Issue - Tiara 2700 (1988)]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9402 Wed, 30 Sep 2026 21:53:49 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9402 Filling up my boat with gas is taking a LONG time.  I have to stop every half gallon and let the fuel go down before squeezing the nozzle again. I never heard of fuel vents before but I'm assuming that is the issue .. those two bolts on exterior of boat?  Is that where I should start first?

Are these difficult to replace/clean?  Also is there a hack or workaround to fill the boat up with gas to get me through the weekend until I can order parts and wrestle with this problem?

Thank you very much!

Max
]]> Filling up my boat with gas is taking a LONG time.  I have to stop every half gallon and let the fuel go down before squeezing the nozzle again. I never heard of fuel vents before but I'm assuming that is the issue .. those two bolts on exterior of boat?  Is that where I should start first?

Are these difficult to replace/clean?  Also is there a hack or workaround to fill the boat up with gas to get me through the weekend until I can order parts and wrestle with this problem?

Thank you very much!

Max
]]> <![CDATA[Switch identification]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9401 Thu, 24 Sep 2026 14:20:04 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9401 IMG_3442.jpeg
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 Can anyone please tell me what this switch is for?  It is located on the bulkhead behind the seat cushion and under the power panel inside the boat.  Someone said it had something to do with my Jabsco electric toilet conversion but not sure that is correct.  Thank you!]]> IMG_3442.jpeg
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 Can anyone please tell me what this switch is for?  It is located on the bulkhead behind the seat cushion and under the power panel inside the boat.  Someone said it had something to do with my Jabsco electric toilet conversion but not sure that is correct.  Thank you!]]> <![CDATA[Hard To Locate Leak]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9400 Sun, 13 Sep 2026 17:17:52 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9400 Leak 4203.JPG
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 [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.]]> Leak 4203.JPG
9 Downloads - FileSize: 74.1 KB
 [attachment=1633][attachment=1633]I been trying to locate the source of a small leak, since I like to have a clean dry bilge. Finally I was able to trace the leak back to the screws holding the exhaust bezel on the outside of the hull at the waterline. Depending on how the boat is loaded fuel etc, changed the severity of the leak. I suspect the screws were bedded with caulk from the factory and it aged over time. Hopefully this will save someone else some time.]]> <![CDATA[Latch for sliding vinyl shade on overhead hatch.]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9399 Thu, 10 Sep 2026 21:32:43 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9399 <![CDATA[1995 3500 Express LFP/Inverter Install]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9398 Thu, 10 Sep 2026 00:09:52 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9398 My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app).

My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand).

I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or more amps without much issue. Second, I'm not planning to use the alternator to charge the battery bank from 0-100% since I really do not foresee my use being more than an overnight on the hook and going to a port with shore power afterwards. Third, if I did need that sort of deep charge for an extended period (like going to the Georgian Bay in Lake Huron), I'd invest in a few solar panels and an MPPT charge controller to do the heavy lifting rather than burning diesel on an inefficient charge.

At port the bank is charged with a dedicated 40 amp LFP charger. You do not want to use a charger that doesn't have an LFP setting because they float differently than flooded or gel. You will want to wire the plug for your charger directly to your shore power inlet with an inline fuse or on a line with a dedicated breaker so you can turn it off while on your inverter.

I hooked my batteries together with heavy duty buss bars. Do not cheap out and just try to daisy chain them with battery cables because these batteries are sensitive to path of least resistance. You'll find (like I did) that they'll discharge unevenly if you have the load pulling from battery A while the negative is pulling from Battery C. Make sure to install on-terminal fuses for each battery. Mine are 100 amp.

Once you're hooked together, WattCycle's app lets you control the battery settings through their onboard Bluetooth (don't cheap out and get the kind without Bluetooth built in). Make sure to set all three batteries to parallel mode so they can communicate with one another to manage the draw.

Finally, run #10 or better wire to the generator switch on your panel. It worked like a charm. My inverter came with a remote and a control panel, but I find the remote works great and I have no need to see the state of charge on a panel since the app does a better job anyway.

I gained around twice the usable amp hours at less than half the weight since a group 31 is around 55 pounds and these LFP are only 22 pounds. You can flatten the LFP batteries and it really won't kill your life expectancy on an application like this. 

Note: My V berth AC is a new MarinAire 6k BTU 115v unit that replaced the original when it went out last year. It has built-in soft start and the inverter has zero problems powering it. The whole AC set up pulls around 8 amps running, including my 600 GPH pump.

Hope this helps someone else considering an electric conversion.]]> My 95' 3500 Express did not have a generator but the electric panel is pre-wired for one. Instead of spending who knows how much for a diesel generator install I opted for a 300 amp hour 12v lithium-iron battery bank and a 3000 watt inverter. It does everything I need it to do. I stress tested the system this summer on a 90* day by first cooling down the cabin while on shore power, then going to anchor out to swim all day. I had my V berth AC running at 75* while at anchor, two refrigerators, water pumps, toilet, and the radio going while on the hook. I had 6 hours of capacity running with those loads (which you can monitor in real time with the battery app).

My set up is three 100ah WattCycle trolling batteries with Bluetooth, a Giandel 3000w pure sine inverter, an 18 amp 12v DC-DC converter (it goes between my alternator and the LFP battery bank), and the various cables, switches, and buss bars. I think I'm about $1100 all in on materials (I did the work myself and had some wiring on hand).

I removed the house Group 31 flooded batteries and reinstalled the LFPs in that portside space. I left one flooded battery as a charging battery as follows: wire the alternator to the flooded battery, then wire the flooded to a Victron 18amp 12v DC-DC converter, which then is wired to the LFP bank. You do not need an isolated converter because the boat has a common ground. I went with 18 amps firstly because I didn't want to tax the alternator, though I could have easily gone to 30 or more amps without much issue. Second, I'm not planning to use the alternator to charge the battery bank from 0-100% since I really do not foresee my use being more than an overnight on the hook and going to a port with shore power afterwards. Third, if I did need that sort of deep charge for an extended period (like going to the Georgian Bay in Lake Huron), I'd invest in a few solar panels and an MPPT charge controller to do the heavy lifting rather than burning diesel on an inefficient charge.

At port the bank is charged with a dedicated 40 amp LFP charger. You do not want to use a charger that doesn't have an LFP setting because they float differently than flooded or gel. You will want to wire the plug for your charger directly to your shore power inlet with an inline fuse or on a line with a dedicated breaker so you can turn it off while on your inverter.

I hooked my batteries together with heavy duty buss bars. Do not cheap out and just try to daisy chain them with battery cables because these batteries are sensitive to path of least resistance. You'll find (like I did) that they'll discharge unevenly if you have the load pulling from battery A while the negative is pulling from Battery C. Make sure to install on-terminal fuses for each battery. Mine are 100 amp.

Once you're hooked together, WattCycle's app lets you control the battery settings through their onboard Bluetooth (don't cheap out and get the kind without Bluetooth built in). Make sure to set all three batteries to parallel mode so they can communicate with one another to manage the draw.

Finally, run #10 or better wire to the generator switch on your panel. It worked like a charm. My inverter came with a remote and a control panel, but I find the remote works great and I have no need to see the state of charge on a panel since the app does a better job anyway.

I gained around twice the usable amp hours at less than half the weight since a group 31 is around 55 pounds and these LFP are only 22 pounds. You can flatten the LFP batteries and it really won't kill your life expectancy on an application like this. 

Note: My V berth AC is a new MarinAire 6k BTU 115v unit that replaced the original when it went out last year. It has built-in soft start and the inverter has zero problems powering it. The whole AC set up pulls around 8 amps running, including my 600 GPH pump.

Hope this helps someone else considering an electric conversion.]]> <![CDATA[Just got my 2006 Tiara 2900 for Chicago Lake Michigan]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9394 Sat, 05 Sep 2026 17:10:13 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9394 it has good bones but came from saltwater,  I will be doing a lot of updates and maintenance my self. 
Eager to learn more about this community and willing to exchange ideas.

the boat has about 700hrs and thinking to start with exhaust manifolds and raisers, change a good numbers of hoses.
I moved from a 2000 bayliner 2655 single sterndrive and  I am new on driving twin inboards. would like to hire someone to teach me.

Luis]]> it has good bones but came from saltwater,  I will be doing a lot of updates and maintenance my self. 
Eager to learn more about this community and willing to exchange ideas.

the boat has about 700hrs and thinking to start with exhaust manifolds and raisers, change a good numbers of hoses.
I moved from a 2000 bayliner 2655 single sterndrive and  I am new on driving twin inboards. would like to hire someone to teach me.

Luis]]> <![CDATA[3500 Open deck lift piston]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9393 Wed, 02 Sep 2026 13:58:10 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9393 <![CDATA[Just bought a 1997 4000 Express.]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9392 Sun, 30 Aug 2026 20:30:02 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9392 <![CDATA[Wiper Blades 3900 Sovran]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9391 Sat, 29 Aug 2026 13:37:22 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9391 <![CDATA[Free aft cockpit sunshade bracket & canvas - pickup or pay to ship]]> https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9387 Thu, 27 Aug 2026 13:29:37 +0000 https://www.tiaraownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=9387
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