[Chris Burkard]

If you are very mechanically inclined, I would say go for it. Make sure you clean the mating surfaces very well (use the proper gaskets) and torque the bolts down upon reassembly in the correct pattern and to the correct torque figures. I believe they recommend re-torqueing the bolts after a certain period of time (check the manufacturers directions).

Note 1: Make sure you reinstall the exhaust hoses and cooling lines with all new clamps and make sure you torque them down to the proper settings and the clamps are located in the proper places. One of the easiest ways to sink a boat is blowing off the main exhaust hoses. The raw water engine cooling pump can pump far more water than the bilge pumps can keep up with. Even with the engine off, the right sea conditions can force water up through the exhaust and into the boat. The exhaust openings are the largest holes in the hull at the waterline. Even a small exhaust leak could allow dangerous carbon monoxide to find its way into the cabin or even up into the canvas enclosed helm area. Make sure you check your work for exhaust leaks!

Note 2: When working in the bilge of your boat, make sure you only use ignition protected electrical devices such as power tools and vacuums. Using non-ignition protected electrical devices in the bilge of a boat can create an explosion, especially in a gasoline powered vessel. Best to stick to hand tools if you are uncertain if your device is ignition protected or not. Most automotive electrical tools are not ignition protected as automotive machinery spaces are vented to the surrounding areas unlike an inboard vessel.

Sorry for the preaching, but I have no idea of your skill level and I want to point out the Do-it-yourself mistakes that could be catastrophic.

Good Luck!