I would like to replace the plastic thru hulls on my 1998 Tiara 3100. They are under the toilet in a small alley. Seems like it would be very difficult to access from the engine compartment. If I remove the toilet, would I have access?
I removed and replaced all but two of the plastic one on my 98.. The thru hulls in the head are actually under the sink. Still a little tight but mostly accessible. The ones that we're really impossible are the mid bilge and adjacent thru hull next to it just behind the ones in the head. On my boat those were just aft of the engine room bulkhead. To get to them you'd need to remove the water pump and probably other items at the front of the port engine and squeeze all the way over to the port side.
I chose to paint them black to match the boot stripe.
FYI in order to extract the plastic ones, you'll need to create a puller jig and use a heat gun to release the 5200. It wasn't to hard, but definitely needs some patience not to burn anything or break the plastic ones and make it a pain to pull out.
Don't forget to epoxy the raw openings to create a much of a seal on the core as possible in addition to the new sealant on the new thru hulls.
Definitely an improvement and probably a good investment on keeping water out if the plastic failed.
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Home Port: Niceville FL
Vessel Info: 1999 3100 Open with Hardtop and Cummins Diesels.
Posts: 15
Threads: 6
Likes Given: 0
Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts
Joined: Nov 2020
Home Port: Niceville FL
Vessel Info: 1999 3100 Open with Hardtop and Cummins Diesels.
One note, going to metal replacements requires an added grounding wire to each. Not 100% necessary as the thru hulls are above the water line, but still a good idea.
[attachment=799][attachment=799]I couldn't find the original jig i used, but here's a sketch. Basically, a piece of plywood with a hole large enough for the thru hull, spacers and a top piece of plywood through which i fed 3-4 "J" bolts that I used to pull out the existing thru hulls. Also, I inserted the J hooks from inside. Using 3-4 allows even pressure around the thru hull.
As for process, I heated the existing thru hulls and adjacent hull area with a heat gun. Careful not to overheat it but releasing the 5200 that Tiara used would be impossible without the heat. The key is heat and even pressure and they will release. You don’t want to put so much pressure on that the thru hull breaks or you separate the gelcoat or hull. Patience and heat, reheat and they will release. All mine came out without any issues.
Lastly, it's a good idea to epoxy the hull opening after the thru hull is removed and everything is cleaned out. A little ounce of prevention for possible future water intrusion. I replaced the Thru hulls with Chrome ones and used 4200 as I figured it was a little more workable.
The pictures are for a jig I built to replace the aft scuppers, same idea.
Hope this helps. E Mail if you have any other questions.