[Betterdays123]

2004 Tiara 3200 8.1 crusaders mpi
What exterior hull maintenance is required. (Pre launch)
Things I know...
Hull zincs
Prop and rudder zincs(not sure)
Any others?

Any maintenance on the shafts/seals/drip less bearings?

A rundown of recommended maintenance for a new boat owner would be greatly appreciated.
Basically, anything that should not be overlooked.

I had trans coolers and elbows changed last year.

Thanks

[ReelNauti]

Wash
Wax
Bottom Paint
Check run out on the cutlass bearings
Clean the running gear
Don't forget to put the plug in.
Check and charge the batteries
Verify all fluid levels
Check the condition of all the hoses. At 10 years some may be showing signs. To me this is especially important for any
hose connected to a thru-hull.
Check all hose clamps.
How are the Raw water pumps? When was the last time the impellors were changed?
Heat Exchanger Zincs
Any zincs in the trans cooler?
I always make sure my engines start prior to launch, just don't do it dry.

This is a short list off the top of my head

[Chris Burkard]

Impellers! If the boat has been sitting for more than 4 months, I would change them. When they sit that long, they get memory. I would also change fluids if not done so before the boat was stored. Condensation can build up in the crank case while the engine sits for a long period of time. This reacts with the oil and compounds of combustion and can create an acidic condition. If you can, let the boat sit in the water for 24 hours before you run the boat at planning speeds. When a boat sits on bunks for an extended period of time, the bottom actually changes shape ever so slightly. This can cause premature cutlass bearing and shaft log wear. By letting the boat sit for 24 hours, the hull has a chance to return to its normal shape.

[sawdustdad]

I'll add a few of my spring chores--sanitize and refill potable water tank(s), wipe down reefer and other non porous kitchen surfaces with mild clorox or kitchen cleaner solution to kill any mold, clean any canvas, clean and polish any strataglass windows, clean and treat any upholstery surfaces. don't forget zincs on the trim tabs. Check operation before you splash the boat. Have the props scanned and tuned if it hasn't been done before (assuming this is a new to you boat). Clean all the seawater strainers. Talk to your mechanic about any other preventative maintenance...

[Uhehner]

Years back I did all the maintenance that the manufacturers recommended myself. By the time I was finished it was time to winterize again, so I moved to Florida. One lesson I learned, DO NOT put Clorox in an aluminum water tank to sanitize it. The chlorine attacks the aluminum and then you have a leak. Capt. George

[anthem]

If Clorox is used in the proper dosage, it is very effective for sanitizing the fresh water system. The proper dosage is 2oz to 5 gallons of water. According to Peggie Hall, a leading professional in Marine Sanitation, the proper procedure is to add the appropriate amount of bleach, run the water thru all faucets and wash downs until you smell the bleach. This will kill whatever is living in the tanks or the lines. Leave the system pressurized for 24 hours, then drain the water from the tank or tanks thru the faucets and wash downs. Ad fresh water and flush the system again with fresh water. It would be a good idea to take off all the aerators before you drain the tanks, otherwise whatever has died will be captured there. Shocking the fresh water system once a year in this manner should have no adverse effects. I have used this method for years with no problems.