[emarrero]

I had to haul and cover this boat as soon as it was delivered. Finally took the covers off and crawled into the trunk. There's a *lot* of stuff in there and I think the last time it was clean was probably 1999. 

The engine room hatch doesn't like to lift more than 2" without a little manual assist. The trunk lid and tables all work. My first suspicion is maybe I don't have enough fluid in there. Does anyone know if there's a gauge/dipstick/sight-glass? Also is this thermometer the temperature of the fluid?

I sure could use a brain-dump from someone who knows their way around this thing.

       

[jclark003]

I believe that is the sight glass for the fluid level in reservoir. You should have a cap on top of tank that allows fluid to be added. Not sure what level is full, probably 3/4 or so with all cylinders in down position, definitely do not fill to top. Possible you have a stuck or faulty valve on the engine hatch circuit. Does the hatch lower by itself after the pump shuts off? You should be able to swap valves around to determine if one is bad. Some past posts contain the manufacture name if you need to chase down parts.

[MC1600]

Jclark — you seem familiar with these systems. I’d like to change the fluid and filter on mine. Is that as simple as drain (or suck) fluid, change filter, and refill?

Any type of bleeding procedure required?

What’s the recommended fluid?

[emarrero]

Thank you jclark003. The hatch stays up after I get it open. I'll start by adding Dexron fluid to 1/2 in from the top with everything closed like the little sign says before going at the valves.

   

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MC1600, The owners' manual says the system self bleeds. The little sticker in the boat says only use Dexron. 

I hope my P.O.'s only used Dexron ATF

   

[jclark003]

There is a procedure to purge the lines and cylinders but I don’t have the manual so can’t advise. I think first drain and refill reservoir, then change filter, followed by disconnecting a line from one side (return I believe) of each circuit and putting into a bucket, then running the pump for a few seconds will force the new fluid in and the old out. Otherwise if you don’t want to mess around with the lines, fill reservoir up half way, run each circuit up and down a couple times and change out the reservoir fluid again and you should be good to go.

[jmk]

Level is low. It is supposed to be 1/2 inch from the top on that pump (Monarch Hydraulics). Add Dexron III ATF (no need to drain, color shows you have that already).


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[WonByLand]

Level is low.  It is supposed to be 1/2 inch from the top on that pump (Monarch Hydraulics).  Add Dexron III ATF (no need to drain, color shows you have that already).


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just purchased a 1998 4000 express and a newbie here... My engine hatch is now stuck in the up position... When i operate the switches for the hatch and 2 tables, I believe I am hearing the pump (whirring sound) but no movement of the hatch. I was thinking my fluid might be low. Did you have luck with your issue?

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Thank you jclark003. The hatch stays up after I get it open. I'll start by adding Dexron fluid to 1/2 in from the top with everything closed like the little sign says before going at the valves.

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MC1600, The owners' manual says the system self bleeds. The little sticker in the boat says only use Dexron. 

I hope my P.O.'s only used Dexron ATF

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emarrero - I just purchased a 1998 4000 express and a newbie here... My engine hatch is now stuck in the up position... When i operate the switches for the hatch and 2 tables, I believe I am hearing the pump (whirring sound) but no movement of the hatch. I was thinking my fluid might be low. Did you have luck with your issue? If you have any insights I'd appreciate it! - Thanks

[emarrero]

Yikes! There's a little post that folds down from the hatch to keep it from accidentally closing. That's on the long edge to starboard of center. It's usually clipped up in the closed position. Hopefully it's just that.

Otherwise I must say I don't know how to close that hatch other than monkeying with the actuators. 

If I had to pull the pins to disconnect them I would support the very heavy hatch with lumber, then use a bottle jack or something similar to let it down gently.

Also - I've seen a disconnected actuator go right through an exhaust hose on a sea ray. Tape off the switch if you do disconnect it. 

That's a little knowledge and a little opinion. Hope at least some of it helps.

[WonByLand]

Thanks for the insights! It's not the safety support though. Once I'm back on the boat I need to check fluid levels... maybe find a relief valve so I can push it down manually - hopefully not have to remove the actuators... Take care.

[jclark003]

If the motor is running and you have fluid there is a good chance a valve is stuck or inoperable. Cracking the hydraulic lines slightly at the pump will allow gravity to lower the hatch. I would not mess with disconnecting the rams as that hatch is quite heavy and as previous post suggested, potential for something to get broken or injury to occur. You will need something to catch the fluid as it will leak out once the line is opened. If you find a manual valve please share. I'm not aware of such a thing.