[67-LS1]

Hi,
I have a 1990 3600 Open and I would like to replace the teak on both gunnels and across the transom. After 24 years, they have been refinished to the point where the black caulk lines are gone.
I pulled the caulk from the perimeter of each board but cannot get the wood out. They must have used some form of nuclear glue or ??? I would like to get them out in one piece if possible so I can use them as a pattern.
Has anyone ever replaced their wood? How did you get the old wood out? I have tried gently prying but I don't want to scratch the fiberglass. I have tried a chemical that softens the rubber caulk but apparently that's not what's under the wood.
HELP!
Dennis

[Uhehner]

I tried the same thing on my 36 Convertible. There is black caulk under the teak in addition to the screws. I managed to get one small piece out and then gave up. My original idea was to remove them and raise them up with 1/4" PVC. My new solution is to add teak covering boards and bed them down and screw them to the top of the existing wood. 1/2" teak should look good. It's now a future project. Capt. George

[67-LS1]

Raising the original wood is a great idea, but it will NOT come out.
The "glue" holding the wood down on my boat looks more like a gray construction adhesive. And no screws except the transom door.
Dennis

[jmk]

I have the same year so I'm interested in how this turns out. Ultimately a careful chisel will remove any wood, but it's a lot of work. I suspect that may be your only option, however. You might test "Goof off" (Xylene) on the adhesive. Works on lots of things and I can say from experience the gelcoat appears impervious to it. I've thought that if I ever did this job I'd replace the single teak board with 2" wide battens. Those boats were built in a day when teak was much cheaper than today. Now, battens are much more easily obtained than a 6-8" wide board 1/2" thick and probably 6" long or more. Don Casey's information webpage on caulks is good reading as to what you can put against gelcoat. I noticed Tiara specifically changed from that hard black rubber to black silicone for all joints that contacted the gelcoat. This would be consistent with Don's guidelines.

[Uhehner]

Another idea is to cover the teak wood with that new FAUX TEAK that I see at the boat shows. It's about 1/4" thick and some of it looks real to me. I took some samples and tried cutting and bending it with great success. At the shows they sell it as decking. Comes in strips and various widths. Glues down with their adhesive. Capt. George

[jmk]

Good point. That stuff looks damn good an never needs attention. Only downside is it gets hotter than teak under foot, but who cares for a little strip on the gunnel?

[cjay]

Uhehner - 9/17/2014 8:05 AM

I tried the same thing on my 36 Convertible. There is black caulk under the teak in addition to the screws. I managed to get one small piece out and then gave up. My original idea was to remove them and raise them up with 1/4" PVC. My new solution is to add teak covering boards and bed them down and screw them to the top of the existing wood. 1/2" teak should look good. It's now a future project. Capt. George

I would love to do the same. I think it would look great. Something like this, from [Only registered and activated users can see links Click here to register] ....