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Freshwater drains
#11
In the manual I got from Tiara they want you to drain the tank instead of pumping tank empty because pumping leaves more water in tank as opposed to draining.this is important in that you would have less water to dilute the concentration of antifreeze you put in.only problem with that is when you can't access drain and have to just go with pumping out water .tiara said to put 5 gals of the pink stuff in but I didn't have the temperature protection I wanted so I had to put more in to achieve that.it would also be nice to know where pickup is also so you would know if maybe you should winterize before pitching boat up for winter.i suspect pickup is forward and this led to residual water in tank necessitating extra detox to get concentration to proper level after pumping through system.bill
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bwoods94 (11-24-2016)
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#12
(11-23-2016, 08:07 AM)williamwalter Wrote: In the manual I got from Tiara they want you to drain the tank instead of pumping tank empty because pumping leaves more water in tank as opposed to draining.this is important in that you would have less water to dilute the concentration of antifreeze you put in.only  problem with that is when you can't access drain and have to just go with pumping out water .tiara said to put 5 gals of the pink stuff in but I didn't have the temperature protection I wanted so I had to put more in to achieve that.it would also be nice to know where pickup is also so you would know if maybe you should winterize before pitching boat up  for winter.i suspect pickup is forward and this led to residual water in tank necessitating extra detox to get concentration to proper level after pumping through system.bill

Understand your concern and the process you use. If it works for you I would continue doing it.. I've been draining the fresh water tank using the fresh water pumps until no more can be pumped (pumps run continuously when no more is left to pump) and then I drain the filter.. Know there is residual in the tank but I do NOT put the pink (non-tox antifreeze) stuff in as it always leaves a smell when refilled in the spring and it's hard to get rid of the smell as well... What I've been doing for more than 20 years (10 yrs on a 31 Open and now 10 yrs on my 38 Open) is blowing out the water lines (hot & cold) with a compressor and draining as best as I can the fresh water tank as described above. To date I haven't had any problems with the water lines breaking or the fresh water tank due to freezing during the winter...I live in the northeast where winters are severe and temps stay below freezing for weeks at a time... When refilling in the spring I add a small amount of Clorox to the tank to freshen up the water and ensure all is OK for use.....
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#13
An old salt told me to put cheap gin or vodka in the water tank to winterize it. That makes you look forward to spring and you don't get the pink anti-freeze smell.  Capt. George
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bwoods94 (11-24-2016)
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#14
(11-23-2016, 09:23 AM)Uhehner Wrote: An old salt told me to put cheap gin or vodka in the water tank to winterize it. That makes you look forward to spring and you don't get the pink anti-freeze smell.  Capt. George

Now that sounds like a plan.... Have a great holiday season
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bwoods94 (11-24-2016)
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#15
Heard from a freind that better than Clorox. Hydrogen peroxide works better.have never tried but just throwing it out there.personel preference would be the vodka of course.Bill
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#16
(11-23-2016, 09:49 AM)williamwalter Wrote: Heard from a freind that better than Clorox. Hydrogen peroxide works better.have never tried but just throwing it out there.personel preference would be the vodka of course.Bill

thanks.. Will look into it..... Most people I know use Clorox but I'm open to it....
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#17
(11-23-2016, 08:07 AM)williamwalter Wrote: In the manual I got from Tiara they want you to drain the tank instead of pumping tank empty because pumping leaves more water in tank as opposed to draining.this is important in that you would have less water to dilute the concentration of antifreeze you put in.only problem with that is when you can't access drain and have to just go with pumping out water .tiara said to put 5 gals of the pink stuff in but I didn't have the temperature protection I wanted so I had to put more in to achieve that.it would also be nice to know where pickup is also so you would know if maybe you should winterize before pitching boat up for winter.i suspect pickup is forward and this led to residual water in tank necessitating extra detox to get concentration to proper level after pumping through system.bill

The best way to winterize the potable water system is to open the drain on the water heater and let that go into the bilge. Then isolate the fill line to the water heater so new water does not fill the empty heater. Then pump antifreeze through the potable water lines one at a time until pink antifreeze comes out of each line. Connect a funnel to the outflow end of the water filter and use the potable anti freeze container as the source of anti freeze instead of the fresh water tank. Remember to winterize the line to the head as well. Dump a gallon of antifreeze into the head after the holding tank is empty and flush it through. Open the macerater valve and run that until pink comes out the discharge . Remember to do the same with the ice maker, wet bar, shower in the head and transom shower. Do not add anti freeze to the fresh water tank as it will take forever to get rid do the taste when you turn the system back on. The water tank and heater will not crack because there is room for residual water to expand in these nearly empty tanks.
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#18
(11-23-2016, 04:25 PM)sbw1 Wrote:
(11-23-2016, 08:07 AM)williamwalter Wrote: In the manual I got from Tiara they want you to drain the tank instead of pumping tank empty because pumping leaves more water in tank as opposed to draining.this is important in that you would have less water to dilute the concentration of antifreeze you put in.only  problem with that is when you can't access drain and have to just go with pumping out water .tiara said to put 5 gals of the pink stuff in but I didn't have the temperature protection I wanted so I had to put more in to achieve that.it would also be nice to know where pickup is also so you would know if maybe you should winterize before pitching boat up  for winter.i suspect pickup is forward and this led to residual water in tank necessitating extra detox to get concentration to proper level after pumping through system.bill

The best way to winterize the potable water system is to open the drain on the water heater and let that go into the bilge. Then isolate the fill line to the water heater so new water does not fill the empty heater. Then pump antifreeze through the potable water lines one at a time  until pink antifreeze comes out of each line. Connect a  funnel to the outflow end of the water filter and use the potable anti freeze container as the source of anti freeze instead of the fresh water tank. Remember to  winterize the line to the head as well. Dump a gallon of antifreeze into the head after the holding tank is empty and flush it through. Open the macerater valve and run that until pink comes out the discharge . Remember to do the same with the ice maker, wet bar, shower in the head and transom shower. Do not add anti freeze to the fresh water tank as it will take forever to get rid do the taste when you turn the system back on.  The water tank and heater will not crack because there is room for residual water to expand in these nearly empty tanks.

I agree the procedure above works but I found over more than 20 years just blowing out the lines using an air compressor works well and you save the cost of the non-tox antifreeze and the concerns regarding getting rid of the taste/smell in the spring. M2C
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