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Westerbeke on a 3200 Open
#1
I have a 2006 3200 Open, I love it and it is a terrific boat in many ways.


I purchased it in 2014 with only 270 hours of use and the Westerbeke (gasoline), generator had only 50 hours total time on it.
My problem is, the generator starts but won't continue to run unless I hold the "run" switch in the energized position.
I have had three different mechanics work on it. Filters changed, new carburetor, new fuel line supply hose and check valve and so on.

I am a hands on person and always follow wiring diagrams and troublshooting charts however, access to this little bugger is near impossible.
Impeller, oil filter, belts and over temp switches are all on the aft side and even after removing the main engine exhaust ducts I still have to work by feel.
Access aside does anyone have any insight as to why this thing won't stay running, (again, I've gone through the trouble shooting steps in the manual.)
Calling Westerbeke was of no help as they refereed me to my nearest marina mechanic.
Hope someone can offer advice.

Walker
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#2
Basically the run switch by passes the sensors until it is running. Sensor are water temp switch, exhaust temp switch and the oil pressure switch. Try by passing each of these one at a time. If you bypass one of them and it cures the problem, then the problem is either that particular switch or what it is detecting, exhaust, water or oil. 

Do you have the owners manual? There is a simple to follow troubleshooting guide which MAY help in this case. But above is a good start. I have a diesel generator so I am assuming gasoline has the same switches BTW. 

Just re-read that you do have the manual, I apologize for that. 
Tom
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#3
(06-08-2016, 07:36 AM)trit21 Wrote: Basically the run switch by passes the sensors until it is running. Sensor are water temp switch, exhaust temp switch and the oil pressure switch. Try by passing each of these one at a time. If you bypass one of them and it cures the problem, then the problem is either that particular switch or what it is detecting, exhaust, water or oil. 

Do you have the owners manual? There is a simple to follow troubleshooting guide which MAY help in this case. But above is a good start. I have a diesel generator so I am assuming gasoline has the same switches BTW. 

Just re-read that you do have the manual, I apologize for that. 

(06-08-2016, 10:06 AM)Walker Wrote:
(06-08-2016, 07:36 AM)trit21 Wrote: Basically the run switch by passes the sensors until it is running. Sensor are water temp switch, exhaust temp switch and the oil pressure switch. Try by passing each of these one at a time. If you bypass one of them and it cures the problem, then the problem is either that particular switch or what it is detecting, exhaust, water or oil. 

Do you have the owners manual? There is a simple to follow troubleshooting guide which MAY help in this case. But above is a good start. I have a diesel generator so I am assuming gasoline has the same switches BTW. 

Just re-read that you do have the manual, I apologize for that. 

Tom,
Thank you for the reply. I know about the sensors but I did not know that they are bypassed when I toggle the "run" switch - that is good info.
Do you have any tips regarding access? I can't even find these sensors with a mirror let alone remove and replace them.
I wish I had an access panel cut into my step up into the cockpit where I could then easily gain access to the aft side of the generator.
Thanks again.
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#4
My gen set was hard to keep running, had to hold the start button but it would eventually stay running turned out to be a failing ballast resistor.
I also could not find points but found a blog on google that had P/Ns for a pointless retrofit kit. Access is very poor on my 31 open and the gen set needed to come out to replace the points. good luck 
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#5
(06-08-2016, 11:55 AM)Silver Rush Wrote: My gen set was hard to keep running, had to hold the start button but it would eventually stay running turned out to be a failing ballast resistor.
I also could not find points but found a blog on google that had P/Ns for a pointless retrofit kit. Access is very poor on my 31 open and the gen set needed to come out to replace the points. good luck 

Silver Rush - Thanks for replying.
Hope I don't have to pull the unit. If so, it may be a bit more than I am prepared to tackle which means having the boat yard manage it at the end of season haul out. $$$
Where is the ballast resistor located on your unit?
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#6
I will check, my boat yard found the bad resister at launch prep this April.
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#7
Another usual fail point is the oil pressure switch. When you start oil pressure is zero so the OP switch must be bypassed by the RUN/START switch.
If this OP switch does not function with oil pressure the engine shuts down.  You need a real technician, not a parts changer.
Capt. George
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#8
You know a lot more about them than I do, but I had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad thermostat.  Looking back at my invoice, they replaced my temperature switch.........a $40.00 part......and I was good to go.  

My 3200 has a diesel Westerbeke. 
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#9
There are four ways to have an automatic shutdown. The Normally Closed Exhaust Temperature switch must open. The NC Water temperature switch must open. The Normally Open oil Pressure switch must close with pressure when the engine runs. If it opens the engine stops. Lastly the  NO Over Speed sensor must close. Look at the schematic. One clip lead can bypass the first three switches that are in series . Like I said, the usuaual failure is the oil pressure switch followed by a broken lead on a sensor. Hope this helps.  Capt. George
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#10
(06-09-2016, 11:45 AM)Uhehner Wrote: There are four ways to have an automatic shutdown. The Normally Closed Exhaust Temperature switch must open. The NC Water temperature switch must open. The Normally Open oil Pressure switch must close with pressure when the engine runs. If it opens the engine stops. Lastly the  NO Over Speed sensor must close. Look at the schematic. One clip lead can bypass the first three switches that are in series . Like I said, the usuaual failure is the oil pressure switch followed by a broken lead on a sensor. Hope this helps.  Capt. George

(06-28-2016, 05:25 PM)Walker Wrote:
(06-09-2016, 11:45 AM)Uhehner Wrote: There are four ways to have an automatic shutdown. The Normally Closed Exhaust Temperature switch must open. The NC Water temperature switch must open. The Normally Open oil Pressure switch must close with pressure when the engine runs. If it opens the engine stops. Lastly the  NO Over Speed sensor must close. Look at the schematic. One clip lead can bypass the first three switches that are in series . Like I said, the usuaual failure is the oil pressure switch followed by a broken lead on a sensor. Hope this helps.  Capt. George

Thanks for the troubleshooting tips guy. I'll get to work on it this weekend and report back.
Walker
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