[Knot On Call]

The manual for my 2004 5200 Sovran Salon states to by-pass the hot water tanks and drain them for winterization. I set the by-pass and opened the drain valves but water slowly trickled out until it stopped. Does anyone have a trick on how to vent the tanks so  that all water can be gravity drained and not hung up in the tanks? I do not want to open the pressure relief valves to break any vacuum.

[ReelMagic]

You need to drain the hot water tank before you close the 2 bi-pass valves to allow air into the tank.. I normally drain the fresh water tank first using the galley sink (hot & cold on). When the fresh water tank is empty I shut the galley faucet off and the 2 fresh water pumps. I then open the drain on the hot water tank. Once  the water in the hot water tank is drained I connect a compressor to the dock side water inlet and set the compressor to 60 PSI. I then turn on the compressor and ensure there is no more water coming out of the hot water tank. At this point I close the 2 bi-pass valves and continue to blow out the remaining water from the system by opening one faucet at a time ensuring no more water is coming out of each faucet/valve, air only... Also as a reminder step on the vacu-flush pedal to ensure all water in that line is also drained.... Once complete I remove the compressor, open the 2 hot water bi-pass valves,  and close the hot water tank drain.... I don't use any "Pink" stuff as it leaves a smell/taste in the water following commissioning in the spring. Been using a compressor for 20+ years on several boats and never had a broken line from freezing. M2C

[Uhehner]

The manual for my 2004 5200 Sovran Salon states to by-pass the hot water tanks and drain them for winterization. I set the by-pass and opened the drain valves but water slowly trickled out until it stopped. Does anyone have a trick on how to vent the tanks so  that all water can be gravity drained and not hung up in the tanks? I do not want to open the pressure relief valves to break any vacuum.

From an old timer --Drain as much as you can and then pour a couple of gallons of cheap gin or vodka in the tank, let it circulate and enjoy the aroma comes spring.
I tried it in the New England area and it works. 
Capt.  George

[Knot On Call]

Thanks guys. I did follow the procedure offered above before closing the by-passes, however instead of using a compressor to blow out the hot water tanks, I disconnected the cold water main supply line to both HW tanks and blew lung air in to push out any water. Thanks for the advice.

[reeltimebrad]

Unless your full of hot air that's probably gonna leave to much water in the system. Low spots in the hoses and residual water clinging to everything will settle and can freeze rupture. If you have no way of blowing air in maybe pour a couple gallons of rv antifreeze or gin into the water tank and circulate through all the fixtures and hot water heater.

[ReelMagic]

Just to continue the discussion regarding draining the hot water tank and/or water system itself. I've used a compressor for more than 20 years without any issue yet ensuring all water is removed as part of my winterizing process... The fresh water system itself can support 35-60PSI air pressure as the fresh water pumps themselves support this level of pressure. Additionally, as I connect the compressor to the dockside inlet it ensures not more than approx. 40PSI is seen by the fresh water system, even with all faucets turned off.... I understand many boaters use the "Pink" stuff to ensure water lines don't freeze but the residue in the spring far outweighs the potential of a problem by using a compressor. M2C

[Knot On Call]

Thanks guys. Just to clarify. I manually only blew out the hot water tanks. I used a compressor to blow all other lines clear and followed-up with pink because which I always have done because as stated earlier, there are low spots that can collect water. I appreciate the concern and wish that I did have enough air to blow out my entire boat!!!