[MichFan]

I’m attempting to fix a seal issue (some water spray underway) and need some advice. I have a 2006 Tiara 3200 with 1.5” shafts. I’m trying to increase seal compression by about 1/4 “ but can’t seem to get the stainless steel rotor to move (set screws removed). I’m pretty sure this is the first adjustment since new.

Anyone else have to deal with this? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.


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[ReelMagic]

There's a total of 4 set screws locking the SS ring in place...A primary set screw and a backup set screw (2 sets) are used to secure the stainless steel rotor to the shaft. See attached

[MichFan]

Thanks for the reply. I did remove all set screws but still tough to move rotor. Might try a few drops of soap and try again after a good nights sleep.


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[jclark003]

I had to lightly tap mine with a hammer and a wood block to get the rotor to slide on the shaft. If it hasn’t been moved since new it is probably bound up a little. Obviously you don’t want to go at it hard.

[MichFan]

Thanks jclark. I’m headed back down this week and will try that.


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[hiccup]

have had the same challenge. It's hard to get any leverage on the rotor when you're bent over leaning in the bilge. On my 38 I can get 2 spreader clamps in there (something like the DeWalt DWHT83148) and they make it easy.

In my last boat, which was a 33, it was a little tighter and I had to build a contraption to move the rotor. I used a bolt with a washer and a nut. I threaded the nut on nearly all the way, then the washer, then stuck it in a hypo tube. I cut the hypo tube so that the contraption was just a little shorter than the distance between the rotor and coupling. I made two of these contraptions and spaced them 180 degrees apart on the shaft in between the rotor and coupling. I used masking tape to tape them in place. Then I used two open-ended wrenches to move the nut away from the bolt head a few turns until it started pushing on the rotor, did the same to the other contraption, back and forth. This made it extremely easy to precisely move the rotor the exact amount I wanted to. I had the stuff laying around. If you don't have hypo tubes you can use a piece of pipe or even a wooden dowel with a hole drilled in it.

Measure the distance between the rotor and coupling before you start and write it down along with your target distance. Make a mark on the shaft with a sharpie. Lightly tapping it with a phenolic hammer might work but I absolutely would not start swinging a steel hammer with any force at it.

[MichFan]

Thanks hiccup. I really appreciate the detailed response. You have given me some good ideas. I’ll be back down this weekend and will give an update.


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[MichFan]

Thanks for the all the replies. Went down today and finished the job. It just took the very lightest tap with a phenolic hammer to overcome the stiction. Then they moved freely and I added some compression before replacing set screws. Splash next week.

Thanks again everyone. This forum is great.


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[jclark003]

Glad you were able to get it adjusted. I should have added that PYI recommends replacing set screws every time they are removed. They apparently have a dimple that crushes when they are torqued down. I’ve had a lot of people tell me not to worry about it but I did have one come loose once and it was amazing how much water came in really fast. They will ship them right to you for not much money. Also worth installing a collar lock of some kind behind the rotor (hose clamp will work) as a safety stop.

[MichFan]

Thanks jclark. Good advice. I did have the replacement set screws from PYI and also used the recommended / supplied blue Loctite.


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