by Board at 02-02-2025, 11:46 AM
0 comments
Good afternoon everyone,
I need a comparison, I am a new owner of a Tiara 3100 open year 1985.
In my opinion it seems that the bow is very low (boat stationary).
Do you have by chance some photos of the stern so as to refer to the muffler exits? In this way I would see if it can be in line with the others.
Thanks in advance to all those who will respond.
I need a comparison, I am a new owner of a Tiara 3100 open year 1985.
In my opinion it seems that the bow is very low (boat stationary).
Do you have by chance some photos of the stern so as to refer to the muffler exits? In this way I would see if it can be in line with the others.
Thanks in advance to all those who will respond.
by JMGCINCY2023 at 01-30-2025, 09:22 PM
0 comments
We would like to add hand rails to out factory hardtop as a safety factor. Was this a factory option or any recommendations.
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
by DavidB at 01-29-2025, 01:32 PM
3 comments
Decided to put my boat up for sale. Just retired and want to change things up.
2007 Sovran with IPS 600. 1400 hrs. Services up to date, new back canvas, new outside seats, newer batteries, etc. Recently detailed and looks great.
Owner for the past 11yrs.
Boat is in the Miami area. Not listed yet.
Any interest ?
2007 Sovran with IPS 600. 1400 hrs. Services up to date, new back canvas, new outside seats, newer batteries, etc. Recently detailed and looks great.
Owner for the past 11yrs.
Boat is in the Miami area. Not listed yet.
Any interest ?
by firstlight at 01-28-2025, 01:15 PM
1 comments
2006 36’ open I recently replaced my radar system from an open array to a 24’ Garmin closed array. How many inches high should the radar pedestal be for the radar image to clear the boat. Thanks
by Jack Aperio at 01-26-2025, 11:11 AM
3 comments
Here are a few more photos of my Cummins in-frame engine rebuild (Tiara 4000 Express).
by Jack Aperio at 01-24-2025, 11:57 PM
3 comments
I’ll start off by saying now is a great time to inspect and test your engine oil/temp alarms. I recently experienced an overheat event on my port engine at 2200 RPM with no indication other than the temperature gauge. By the time I had noticed it was at 210°F, the damage was already done. A failed hose clamp on a coolant line resulted with all the coolant in the bilge. There had been no loss of power when I shut it down. My engine temp alarm never sounded. I opened the engine hatch and immediately saw all the steam. Originally, I didn’t think it was going to be that bad. There was only a bit of discoloration on the turbo and the exhaust manifold immediately aft of it. I got back to the dock and then put everything back together the next day. All was great until I looked and saw all the steam coming from my port exhaust. You could smell the coolant. Damage included a cracked exhaust manifold, blown head gasket, piston ring expansion, and sleeve scoring.
I’ve seen a few inquiries regarding an in-frame rebuild of the Cummins 6CTA 8.3 in the 4000 Express, so thought I would confirm it is indeed possible and actually pretty simple for a seasoned mechanic with the right tools. Here is my experience as well as a few photos.
First, I’ll say I consider myself pretty good with a wrench, but I would never try tackling this job myself. I was fortunate to find Craig from Nordic Engine Works in Seattle who had obviously rebuilt the 6CTA dozens of times and didn’t mind having this owner working as his assistant. We started by pressure testing the coolant side and quickly found the exhaust manifold was cracked. Bubbles in the expansion tank were also observed with the engine running. The oil didn’t show any evidence of a milkshake but there was a few drops of coolant on the inside of the oil fill cap. We opted to pull the head for a closer look. This involved removing just about everything (heat exchanger, exhaust manifold, aftercooler, coolant tank, fuel lines, etc.) The head is pretty heavy and it did take both of us to get it onto the deck. Once removed, we noticed the vertical scarring over the cross hatching of the sleeves. Oh boy, here we go…
We took the head in to be rebuilt at a machine shop and sent the turbo and injectors in for testing. The next step was to drop the oil pan. The design to contain all the engine fluids directly under the engine prevented us from removing it fully but there was plenty of room for disconnecting the connecting rods from the crank. Once all the pistons were removed we pulled all of the sleeves. Next was cleaning…lots of cleaning, as well as surface prep and parts ordering.
Now obviously I’m pretty disappointed taking on such a large nonbudgeted expense but being part of the rebuild process was actually pretty fun and very educational. We installed the new sleeves and dropped in the new pistons with new bearings on the existing connecting rods. (I learned there are serial numbers on both the upper and lower sections of connecting rods to keep them from getting mixed up) The oil pan was reinstalled with a new gasket. The rebuilt head was installed and torqued to factory specifications. Lifters, rockers, and valve adjustments followed along with installation of the injectors and fuel lines. Then came the new exhaust manifold, rebuilt turbo, heat exchanger, aftercooler, coolant tank, and all the miscellaneous hoses and piping. All in, my mechanic had under 30 hours on the boat. This obviously doesn’t account for his time for travel, part ordering, machine shop runs, etc., but I found it remarkable that a project like this could be completed in a week or two if everything is readily available. I’m happy to have had such a great experience after such an unfortunate one.
Oh, and I installed a new engine alarm!
I’ve seen a few inquiries regarding an in-frame rebuild of the Cummins 6CTA 8.3 in the 4000 Express, so thought I would confirm it is indeed possible and actually pretty simple for a seasoned mechanic with the right tools. Here is my experience as well as a few photos.
First, I’ll say I consider myself pretty good with a wrench, but I would never try tackling this job myself. I was fortunate to find Craig from Nordic Engine Works in Seattle who had obviously rebuilt the 6CTA dozens of times and didn’t mind having this owner working as his assistant. We started by pressure testing the coolant side and quickly found the exhaust manifold was cracked. Bubbles in the expansion tank were also observed with the engine running. The oil didn’t show any evidence of a milkshake but there was a few drops of coolant on the inside of the oil fill cap. We opted to pull the head for a closer look. This involved removing just about everything (heat exchanger, exhaust manifold, aftercooler, coolant tank, fuel lines, etc.) The head is pretty heavy and it did take both of us to get it onto the deck. Once removed, we noticed the vertical scarring over the cross hatching of the sleeves. Oh boy, here we go…
We took the head in to be rebuilt at a machine shop and sent the turbo and injectors in for testing. The next step was to drop the oil pan. The design to contain all the engine fluids directly under the engine prevented us from removing it fully but there was plenty of room for disconnecting the connecting rods from the crank. Once all the pistons were removed we pulled all of the sleeves. Next was cleaning…lots of cleaning, as well as surface prep and parts ordering.
Now obviously I’m pretty disappointed taking on such a large nonbudgeted expense but being part of the rebuild process was actually pretty fun and very educational. We installed the new sleeves and dropped in the new pistons with new bearings on the existing connecting rods. (I learned there are serial numbers on both the upper and lower sections of connecting rods to keep them from getting mixed up) The oil pan was reinstalled with a new gasket. The rebuilt head was installed and torqued to factory specifications. Lifters, rockers, and valve adjustments followed along with installation of the injectors and fuel lines. Then came the new exhaust manifold, rebuilt turbo, heat exchanger, aftercooler, coolant tank, and all the miscellaneous hoses and piping. All in, my mechanic had under 30 hours on the boat. This obviously doesn’t account for his time for travel, part ordering, machine shop runs, etc., but I found it remarkable that a project like this could be completed in a week or two if everything is readily available. I’m happy to have had such a great experience after such an unfortunate one.
Oh, and I installed a new engine alarm!
by wolfe47374 at 01-24-2025, 10:07 PM
5 comments
I have a 1997 2900 open we just bought middle of last season in lake erie (July 2024). Everything runs great, but struggling with a issue after the boat has been running for 45min +. If we bring it off plane to idle after 45 min or so, one or both engines will bog down trying to get back on plane. We have done the following:
1. Ran boat till almost out of gas. Calculated less that 15 gallons when we filled up 185 Gallons on 200 gallon tank.
2. Ran boat again and ran into this issue
3. Replaced all fuel filters and all water separators after running over 180 gallons back out and refilling gas.
4. Full tune up, including replacing distributor caps, wires.
5. Have noticed, but not did 2 things at once, so I know I need to isolate more:
a. A breaker under the steps seems to trip
b. loosening the gas cap seems to bring it back.
Unfortunately my season ended before I could get another 45min + ride in so not sure which it is. Being a 97, would replacing the fuel lines just be a good maintenance project. What would cause a breaker to trip (fuel pump?). Just looking for any suggestions that may help trace this down. Boat runs amazing until it doesn't. The gas cap leads me to believe the gas lines are collapsing.
It is Fuel injected.
1. Ran boat till almost out of gas. Calculated less that 15 gallons when we filled up 185 Gallons on 200 gallon tank.
2. Ran boat again and ran into this issue
3. Replaced all fuel filters and all water separators after running over 180 gallons back out and refilling gas.
4. Full tune up, including replacing distributor caps, wires.
5. Have noticed, but not did 2 things at once, so I know I need to isolate more:
a. A breaker under the steps seems to trip
b. loosening the gas cap seems to bring it back.
Unfortunately my season ended before I could get another 45min + ride in so not sure which it is. Being a 97, would replacing the fuel lines just be a good maintenance project. What would cause a breaker to trip (fuel pump?). Just looking for any suggestions that may help trace this down. Boat runs amazing until it doesn't. The gas cap leads me to believe the gas lines are collapsing.
It is Fuel injected.
by stanfarbman at 01-24-2025, 02:11 AM
1 comments
Hi,
Does anyone have a photo of a horn for the Tiara 2700? My boat doesn't have one and I would like to install.
Does anyone have a photo of a horn for the Tiara 2700? My boat doesn't have one and I would like to install.
by bradcool at 01-19-2025, 11:54 PM
1 comments
I have a 1993 Tiara Sport 220 that is in very good condition except for a leaking tank or hose. I have a background that gives me the confidence I can do the labor myself including the fiberglass repairs, but I am looking for as much info as I can get before I do. Are there shop manuals out there somewhere I can get some photo copies of the steps to change the fuel tank? Any recommendations I am grateful for.
Brad
Brad
by Twilighttime at 01-16-2025, 01:56 PM
2 comments
Shaft and couplings - 1 1/2” by 82 3/8” long. In shipping crate brand new. $300
3 piece backdrop isinglass and vinyl excellent condition. $150
Full back cover snaps onto arch and deck made out of stamoid. $100
Bedspread for v-berth and matching pillows $35
Ray marine E120 chart plotter $300
West Marine VHF radio $70
Located in Cape Coral Florida, pictures available upon request.
For more information call 612-483-5482
3 piece backdrop isinglass and vinyl excellent condition. $150
Full back cover snaps onto arch and deck made out of stamoid. $100
Bedspread for v-berth and matching pillows $35
Ray marine E120 chart plotter $300
West Marine VHF radio $70
Located in Cape Coral Florida, pictures available upon request.
For more information call 612-483-5482
