[Whefour]

I purchased a '96 31 Open this spring and love it. One issue that has come up is that my three hatches leak. I recently began replacing the rubber gaskets, first confirming the hatch model numbers from Tiara and then purchasing the proper gaskets from Bowmar. I have only replaced the gasket on one hatch due to the trouble I am experiencing with the gasket thickness preventing the hatch from fully closing. Some of this I attribute to the old gasket being compressed due to age allowing easier closing, however I don't know how this new gasket will permit me to close the hatch without extreme force, possibly damaging the hatch dogs. Anyone have experience with this that they could share?

[GeneL]

I see you are in Florida, but it has been cool this weekend, how warm is the gasket? You might need a little heat (hair dryer, not heat gun) until the gasket takes a set. Are you sure it is the gasket and not the seal between the glass and metal? That was the problem on my 3800 open.

I purchased a '96 31 Open this spring and love it. One issue that has come up is that my three hatches leak. I recently began replacing the rubber gaskets, first confirming the hatch model numbers from Tiara and then purchasing the proper gaskets from Bowmar. I have only replaced the gasket on one hatch due to the trouble I am experiencing with the gasket thickness preventing the hatch from fully closing. Some of this I attribute to the old gasket being compressed due to age allowing easier closing, however I don't know how this new gasket will permit me to close the hatch without extreme force, possibly damaging the hatch dogs. Anyone have experience with this that they could share?

[Susanwalter]

I have a similar situation as both hard top hatches and my forward hatch leaks also.all three seem to leak from seal around acrylic.i want to rebed and replace acrylic.watched utube video and looks pretty easy.where would you purchase acrylic.do any of the hatch manufactures make a replacement acrylic.bill

[Toucan49]

I just had to re-seal my bowmar hatch lens, I called bowmar and they suggested using GE Ultraglaze 4000 and clean with rubbing alcohol before sealing, it worked. I had previously tried Sika 295U sealant and it failed to adhere to the cast aluminum.

[Maxwell]

Did you have to remove the entire hatch or were you able to repair it in place?

[whe4]

I re-sealed mine in place. Removed the lens and scraped the residual sealant out of the hatch frame. Took a bit of time.

[rlfletc]

I just picked up the same year and model boat Sunday. Have the same issue and two of the lense have spider cracks. Where do I find the model so I can order new plexi glass covers?

[williamwalter]

I have sesealed all my hatches with Dow 795 silicone.looks like original product.best way is to remove hatch and do on work bench.all 3 of my hatches leaked between gasket and frame. Gaskets all good so rebedding worked .i replaced all 3 lens while I had them out because they were crazed.took lens to glass shop and they cut new acrylic.lots of scraping and tapping but nice to not have leaks.Bill

[paul45c]

I have sesealed all my hatches with Dow 795 silicone.looks like original product.best way is to remove hatch and do on work bench.all 3 of my hatches leaked between gasket and frame. Gaskets all good so rebedding worked .i replaced all 3 lens while I had them out because they were crazed.took lens to glass shop and they cut new acrylic.lots of scraping and tapping but nice to not have leaks.Bill

If these Bomars at all like the ones I just replaced lenses on with my '94 3600 Open, I really struggled with the roll pins securing the aft end of the movable part of the hatch to the bottom frame.  When I finally drove the 2nd pin out far enough, the aft end of that hatch top literally leaped up from the pressure that the main gasket was exerting on it.  Lesson learned.  Before driving out the pins with a drift, cut out that rubber gasket first.  Then yes, it's much much easier to work on cleaning up that frame for rebedding the new piece of acrylic.  All in all, not a bad job.  But if the previous sealant bedding the acrylic had any trace of silicone in it, you'll need to do a lot of iterative cycles of using a scotchbrite pad dipped first in Xylene, wiped clean with a paper towel, then another piece of scotchbrite dipped in toluene, wiped dry, repeat, repeat, repeat until that paper towel is coming out very clean looking.  Takes a surprising number of repetitions to get most of the silicone out of the aluminum (you'll never get it all).  Too much silicone residue, and forget about that seal between acrylic and aluminum holding up for very long.  Silicone is notorious that way, and most people just go by appearance in determining whether the part is clean enough for rebedding.  That's why so many fail.

[mgee]

Pull the hatches out of the boat and follow the instructions below to install new lens and gasket. Rebed the hatches with 3M 4200. Just did all three of mine. Find a local plastic supplier and have them cut the new lens and ask them to install it.

Parts come from Pompanette LLC, name and number below.
myles

Good Morning,
  The serial numbers you provided came back to the following hatch models:
97028846 C193-STD-A
97027019 C191-STD-A
97029770 C191-STD-A

The C193 takes 6.33 feet of gasket P100-52.
The C191 takes 5.31 feet of gasket P100-52.
As P100-52 is sold by the foot I would recommend that you purchase 7 feet for the C193 and 6 feet for each of the C191's. This gasket is pretty readily available at most local marine hardware stores.
To re-bed the acrylic after you are able to source new acrylic near you, you will need GE ULTRAGLAZE, in black - SSG4000 (our part number P100-75). Again, this should be readily available at most local marine hardware stores. Or, if you would like, you can purchase direct through us. The gasket and silicone would ship from New Hampshire in 3-5 business days if you choose to order direct. I have added an order form if you choose to do this, or you can call in to customer service and order over the phone.

Our Pricing:
P100-52 $7.00 per foot.
P100-75 $39 per tube 1 tube =~2 hatch lenses


Kind Regards,

Stephanie D. Allen
Commercial Sales Manager

Pompanette LLC
73 South West Street
Charlestown, NH 03603
Tel: 603-826-5791
Fax: 603-826-4125                        
s_allen@pompanette.com
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INSTALLING REPLACEMENT LENSES IN BOMAR HATCHES

TOOLS: replacement lens
tube of silicone (GE Ultra Glaze)
old spoon
old butter knife or hanger
masking tape
blunt tool

1. Cut away old silicone and remove old lens.

2. Place a two-inch strip of masking tape around the top/outside of hatch lid in order to make the           removal of excess silicone less difficult.

3. If you have a cast hatch disregard this step.   If you have an extruded hatch and wish to replace your            gasket, do so now, making sure to place lip of the gasket on top of the flange (the underside of the lens         will sit on this portion of the gasket).

4. Peel off the paper on the underside of the lens.

5. Place a moderate bead of silicone on the flange and any crossbars where the lens will set.

6. Float the lens into the silicone bead.
  (If your replacement lens has holes in it for your latch dogs, place the holes away from the hinge.  Allow a 1/8” space between the front edge of lens and the frame so your handles will be properly aligned.  If your replacement lens does not have holes in it simply center the lens in the silicone.)

7. After the lens is floated, apply a generous bead of silicone in the gap between the edge of the lens and the frame.

8. Using the back side of an old spoon, place the tip in the silicone at 45 degrees and trowel off any excess       silicone.

9. Check for air bubbles (swelling in the silicone).  To remove air bubbles; drag an old butter knife                  through the swollen area three inches before and after the swollen area.  Apply a new bead of silicone to      the disturbed area and trowel off excess silicone with your spoon.

10. Allow the hatch to sit for two days.

11. Peel off the masking tape and lens paper carefully use a blunt tool to remove any silicone, being careful not to scratch the lens or the hatch frame.

12. The silicone will be totally cured in 7 days.





REPLACING GASKET ON BOMAR HATCHES AND PORTS

ADHESIVE BACKED GASKET
(part numbers P100-53, P100-51, P100-52, P3000-20, P3000-21, P3000-22)

1. Pull out old gasket and using a sharp metal object (knife, awl, narrow chisel) scrape out    all old adhesive.  It is critical that all the old adhesive be removed.

2. Wipe down the gasket area with Isopropyl Alcohol.  Use only Isopropyl Alcohol.

3.  Starting near a hinge, pull back tape cover and apply gasket.  After gasket is installed     around perimeter, carefully cut gasket to length forming a butt joint.  Using any new         tube of superglue, cement butt joint being careful not to get superglue on the lens.       Allow glue to set for five minutes.

4. Carefully go back and apply pressure the entire gasket.  This step is extremely    important.   Pressure is needed to assure proper adhesion of the tape.

LIP GASKET
(part numbers P2000-25, P2000-26, P2000-09)

1. Pull out all old gasket.

2. Starting near a hinge, gently push the lip of the gasket into the space between the lens    and extrusion.

3. Carefully cut gasket to length forming a butt joint.

4. Pull out two inches of gasket either side of joint.  Superglue joint together.  Be careful    not to get superglue on the lens.  Allow glue to set for five minutes.

5. Push gasket joint into cavity.

6. Apply a drop of glue in four corners as shown in the diagram below.  (the gasket shown    below is for demonstration, it does not represent all gaskets)