[NYMarine1]

Just finished up my second Tiara right of passage (duck bill valve change being the first).  I successfully removed the steps leading down from the cockpit to the cabin on my 2003 35 Open so that I could either clean or replace the shower sump pump which was not keeping up with the shower drain.

Once the steps were out it was relatively easy to access the sump.  I cleaned it out with pressurized water and a shop vac to suck up the debris (there was a lot).  The old sump pump still worked but the breaker kept tripping so I put in a direct replacement Rule 800 GPH pump tied to the float switch in the sump box; works great.

While I was in the bilge, tested the forward bilge pump which does not have a manual switch; it was dead, so I also changed that out with another direct replacement Rule 500 GPH with an internal float switch.

I have been trying to get the steps back in for 3 days now without doing any damage.  The primary difficulty is lining up the existing holes in the teak with the holes in frame, as well as getting the back of the steps flush with the vertical bulkhead on opposite sides of the electric panel. 

It appears that when I got the boat the previous owner or dealer had already removed the steps as the back was not flush with the bulkhead and there are several sets of holes in the teak.  The best way so far seems to be to align the steps at an angle and insert the wood top piece that extends down from the cockpit into the groove on the top of the steps and and then tilt the steps back.  It just never seems to line up right.  The last ditch option would probably be to cut down the ground mounts near on the side nearest the bulkhead as it almost seems like they are warped.

Anyone had similar issues?  Any advice would be appreciated?

[trit21]

I own a 2000 3500 and access to the shower sump under those steps is a huge design flaw. Anyway, it is what it is. Alignment is not that critical. I just put the steps in, got my power driver out and screw the screws to the nearest hole and done. I have never ever put all the screws in as it was such a pain to do and especially when removing them. So, the last time I had to do this, I hinged the steps at the top and put gas struts on the sides with a latch at the bottom so now the steps hinge up and out of way to access the shower sump. I don't have any photos but I can get them if you interested in this. Parts are readily available for the modification and it makes it sooooo much better. Whey Tiara didn't do this is beyond me. 

I also had to rewire my shower sump so that is stays on when I run the AC all week (we are in FL) and you don't have keep the cabin breaker on and the house large disconnect on all week either. Small things they didn't think of that really needed to be done. While I was rewiring the sump, I noticed most of the circuit breaker connections were loose and causing intermittent electrical problems, now all gone. But I am off topic and maybe in need of another thread, sorry. 

Anyway, if you interested in the hinge idea, let me know, maybe a couple weeks before I get to the boat again. In the meantime, slide the steps in, screws them down and your good to go. 

Tom

[NYMarine1]

Thanks Tom!  Yeah, would def be interested in the hinge if you don't mind.  

[trit21]

Ok, its going to take a week or 2 until I get back to the boat to document, photo everything. Once I get that I will contact you here. 

[Uhehner]

When I have the screw hole alignment problem you mentioned I use long straight wire coat hangers to get everything aligned. Then I remove one coat hanger at a time and install a screw. Works every time.  Capt  George

[1999R4]

There really isn't a need to take them out if you are just cleaning the sump; I clean mine once a year and have never removed the stairs.  I can reach the front two screws on the sump cover and can also remove and replace the tube filter inside the sump once open (with screwdriver).  The back two screws for the cover can be removed and replaced using a screw driver that allows the tip to angle (20-30 degrees or so) and a grabber. 

   

   

To remove simply unscrew completely and ten use your grabber to get the screw out.  To replace, use the grabber to set screws back in and push down slightly to center it and bring it to vertical, then angle your screw driver to tighten it down.

Once open and you have removed the tube filter, spray some Clorox Clean-up, let sit for a few minutes and then use a toilet brush to agitate and repeat as necessary.  Either use shop vac to add water and use your screw driver to lift the float to discharge cleaning solution.  Keep repeating until all mold and gunk is gone.

While it isn't very comfortable reaching through the open stairs, it isn't so difficult that taking out the stairs makes the overall job easier.

[NYMarine1]

Thx for the tip!  Unfortunately, my arms/hands don't make it anywhere close to the sump when reaching through the steps.  I do like the idea of that angled screw driver though!

[trit21]

Here is a video I took of my stair modification to make it hinge, at the end are some photo of the parts I had to install. If you need further information, please let me know. Much easier and great storage as well, ok a little messy storage but storage none the less. 

[1999R4]

Here is a video I took of my stair modification to make it hinge, at the end are some photo of the parts I had to install. If you need further information, please let me know. Much easier and great storage as well, ok a little messy storage but storage none the less. 

Tom, that is awesome, thanks for posting that, I am definitely adding that project to the winter to do list.

[ddfour1]

Tom--this is a fantastic idea. What is the style of the latch you used too keep the stairs locked down?

Thanks

Dave