by Bill henderson at 12-01-2024, 04:12 PM
I have a 2002 3800 Open w/hard top, I,m looking to install a radar mast and combined the electronics antennas along with a spotlight onto the mast. Has anyone done this, if so do you have pictures, what issues did you run into. Thank you.

(12-01-2024, 04:12 PM)Bill henderson Wrote:
I have a 2004 3800 Open w/hard top, I,m looking to install a radar mast and combined the electronics antennas along with a spotlight onto the mast. Has anyone done this, if so do you have pictures, what issues did you run into. Thank you.
by Jack Aperio at 11-27-2024, 08:15 PM
I finally got around to replacing my exterior vinyl upholstery on my 1995 4000 Express. It was all original and showing its 30 years of use. It’s not an incredibly interesting project but I thought I would share what I learned during the process. 

The removal of most of the seating and back cushions is pretty straightforward. The cockpit seating is on hinges except for the engine room hatch, which is secured by six screws that are easily removed after removing the sound insulating foam from the bottom of the engine room access door. The backrest to port of that location also had three or four screws that needed to be removed from the locker directly behind. The long backrest at the stern simply lifts straight up off of a gutter/track system as does the backrest adjacent to the icemaker. The interesting part came when I tried removing the helm seat area adjacent bench seating. When trying to remove the nuts from underneath I found the bolts would spin with them. Tiara used nylon locknuts and had sawed off the end of each bolt making unthreading nearly impossible without getting access to the bolt from above. The seat cushion is over the top of them and I could not find a way to remove it. Luckily, there were decent size washers underneath that I could get a flathead screwdriver under and apply downward pressure to remove those nylon insert locknuts. This took me several hours as access is pretty tight, climbing into the small compartments to access each one. It wasn’t until I had everything removed that I noticed how Tiara managed to put this together originally. Upon closer inspection, there are six holes visible from the inside of the compartments underneath that have been filled with 3M 5200 or equivalent. These are the access points where Tiara secured the seating to the seat base with six long screws. In hindsight, simply removing the caulking and removing the screws would have allowed me to lift the seat cushion off to access the top of the bolts and would have saved me a couple hours of anguish.

The project turned out great. My upholstery guy matched “Monticello-MOT 9805” which looks to be the exact same product from 1995 although I could not confirm as Tiara did not have any record of what was used in that era. It looks original and I couldn’t be happier with the end result.
by mwfru420 at 11-25-2024, 04:53 PM
As our extended family has grown, so have our boating needs.....therefore, I am selling my 1987 Tiara Slickcraft 220SL cuddy.  The boat is in excellent condition with approximately 700 hours on the Magnum 350 I / O.  The interior is "like new", and despite some minor oxidation, the gel coat is in very good shape.  I spent nearly $7K a few seasons ago for an extensive 5-step wet sanding & polish process which truly made a significant difference.  I have a snap-on canvas cover that is also in great condition.  Feel free to reach out to me directly @ (703) 626-1377 or mwfruin@gmail.com
by JMGCINCY2023 at 11-23-2024, 08:17 PM
Any idea as to where to find replacement Small Hull Chrome Vent Covers for the Holding and Water tank?  When our boat was hauled for the winter, it looks like the lift straps knocked one off.

Thanks, Mike
by nylakeshome at 11-21-2024, 03:32 PM
I would like to re-bed the hull drain fittings from anchor rode compartment on my 1997 31' foot open. However I'm concerned that the existing plastic drains might be brittle and break during disassembly. Searching online I cannot find any replacements. I looked at  possibly using a fuel vent however they are stainless or plated, I much prefer white plastic.  Suggestions appreciated. 

Tom
by jennyJ at 11-19-2024, 02:51 PM
Hi All...
I figured that I would keep everyone posted on a winter project that I am working on... The dreaded black water holding tank replacement on the 4000 Express.  If you are reading this, you are probably aware that the holding tank is a weak link in the overall excellence of the 4000 Express.  It is made from aluminum and it is located in a God-forsaken location in the boat that was NEVER meant to be serviced.  
The boat is "new" to me (two years) and I suspected I had a problem after the first year - I had no idea the problem was as bad as it was.  The tank was clearly leaking - and needed to be removed.  

This is work in progress and I will continue to keep you posted as the work progresses...

STEP 1.
I removed the access hatch (no brainer)
   

STEP 2. 
I cut out the remaining Teak and Holly flooring from the aft stateroom.  I used a multi-tool and cut all along the outside edge of the remaining floor.  I didn't want to disturb the teak and holly.  It was very well adhered and was not coming off - so I cut the fiberglass floor that it was glued to...
   
STEP 3.
I cut out the 3/4" subfloor that was below the Teak and Holly Floor.  This exposed as much of the tank as possible. 
       
STEP 4. 
I cut off the top of the tank with my Sawz-all.  (This is where the project gets kinda gross - actually BEYOND gross)  I needed to expose as much of the tank as possible and devise a way to get it out of the hole.  The tank needed to be "evacuated" as best as possible, so I used a Wet-dry vac to remove the remaining liquid and solids (BEYOND GROSS - but it had to be done.  PRO TIP - Wear a Tyvek suit, mask, eye protection and booties - you will thank me later.
   
STEP 5. 
Once I had the top off, I realized that the only way to remove the tank was to cut it into pieces from the inside.  I cut it using a grinding wheel, sawz-all and jig saw.  I needed to cut it into six pieces to get it out of the hole and remove it from the boat.
STEP 6.
The tank sits in a fiberglassed "well" which contains any "spill over" from the tank.  In my case - there was A LOT of "spill over" because several of the holes were on the bottom of the tank.  Contained in the "well" was a significant amount of liquids and solids which needed to be removed.  (I saved you the photos!)  This area was COMPLETELY cleaned and disinfected with gallons (yes gallons) of bleach.  The entire area was wiped clean until NO residue remained.  
   
STEP 7.
I dried the "well" completely overnight and went back to the boat the next day.  I was pleased to note the boat did not smell at all! The well was clean and dry.  I did have to throw out the wet dry vac however!

STEP 8.
I painted the well with White Rustoleam Top Side Paint.  Let it dry and came back the next day.
   

STEP 9.
I built a prototype tank out of 1/2" insulation board.  I wanted to maximize the tank size that would fit in the newly cut out hole.  I knew that I would not be able to get the 50 gallon storage tank back in the hole so I wanted to create a template box that would slip into the hole.  With this box, I figured that I could get a new tank manufactured.  The "perfect" size that I came up with was 42" x 19" x 11" - this would provide a 35 gallon replacement tank.  Basically, I figured I had a couple of options to make this new tank - I could go to a local welding shop and create one - or I could research the plastic route.  Two local welders provided prices in the $1,500-$2,000 range.  I thought this was a little steep - and frankly wasn't too excited to go back with an aluminum tank and risk future failure.  I found a non-corrosive linear polyethylene tank from Ronco Plastic.  The tank wasn't "Perfect" in size - but I can make it work.  The resulting tank is 40" x 20" x 10" and will contain 30 gallons.  Cost on this tank will be just a little under $500.  I am currently waiting for that tank to be delivered.          

That's all for now.  I will continue to update you when I receive the new tank and mount it in...
by Restless at 11-16-2024, 05:52 PM
I recently purchased a 1997 3100 open and the rollers on the sliding companionway door need to be replaced.  Any help pointing me in the right direction for both parts and process greatly appreciated.
by deerejon at 11-11-2024, 10:18 AM
Howdy all been lurking for a while and finally had the chance at a 41 Open. I absolutely love the boat and am ready to close the deal except for one thing...
The blackwater tank has a rotted top and is unserviceable. I am having a hard time getting an estimate for the replacement as that will factor into the purchase price.
Anyone have a ballpark for this item?

Thanks!!

DJ
by Roweje at 11-10-2024, 09:17 PM
    I have a 2007 Tiara 3600 Open, and one of my Courtesy Lights in the cockpit nroke. It looks like they were originally made by IMTRA based on my emails with Tiara. They are no longer made. I was wondering if anyone else has found a close replace,ent so I don’t have to change them all out to make them match. Attached is a picture of them.
by jdalto@yahoo.com at 11-09-2024, 11:07 AM
Help,

My garage door closed and now will not open. Is there a way to manually raise the door? I think the fluid is low. The catch is that to access the hydraulics you must open the garage door. 

Thanks, 
John
Welcome, Guest
You have to register before you can post on our site.
Search Forums
Forum Statistics
Members: 6,008
Latest member: JWilson
Forum threads: 9,211
Forum posts: 21,590